Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
Events followed thick and fast. Sunday was Kosovo Day, and Monday market
day. A crowd of strange beings flocked in from Gusinje, wild mountain
Albanians, with heads swathed in white cloths and restless, watchful
eyes. But the bringing of weapons to market has been lately forbidden,
and they had nothing more lethal upon them than well-filled cartridge
belts, with which even the little boys were equipped. Our interest in
one another was mutual, and I spent most of the morning in the market
and down by the river, where they were selling and slaughtering sheep
and goats, and the purple puddles were so suitable to the scene that
they ceased to be revolting. Gusinje, being forbidden, fascinated me
exceedingly, and I was charmed to find a Gusinje man had put up for the
night at my hostelry. Djoka was his name; he was as stripey as a tiger;
his sun-tanned face was baked and weathered into lines, and his dark
brown eyes glittered and sparkled. "Art thou Christian or Mohammedan?"
he was asked when his "visitors' form" was being filled in. He looked up
lazily from the bench where he was a-sprawl, and "By God, I know not,"
was all the reply he vouchsafed. We entertained one another for most of
the afternoon. He had never seen drawing done before, and his interest
was intense. He asked to be drawn so that people could see his new
cartridge belt, and posed with a view to showing as much of it as
possible. "But I must have a gun," he said. The idea of lending a
Gusinje man a rifle even for the purposes of fine art was scouted by the
Montenegrins, and we had to do without. He sat motionless and unblinking
for twenty minutes; then unluckily the onlookers told him it was quite
finished. He jumped up, and so many came to see that further sitting was
impossible.
The Botanik and I consulted him about going to Gusinje. He was in high
good humour, for his portrait pleased him greatly. "We only want to
see," said the Botanik. "I pick flowers and make them into hay, and the
lady will draw you pictures. We will make no politik." "Thou art a man,
and they will not believe thee," said Djoka firmly; "and for thee, lady,
it is better not. Perhaps there is danger, perhaps there is not. In
Gusinje there is no law. Next year thou shalt come, and thou also." "Why
will it be possible next year and not now?" I asked; but Djoka merely
stared straight in front of him with a blank face and repeated what he
had said before. And his final good-bye to me was an oracular "Next
year, O lady."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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