Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
Meanwhile, outside in the street people were busy putting up flags, for
it was the eve of Prince Danilo's birthday. Night fell--it grows dark
early in these valleys--and one Marko rushed in to say the Voyvode
wanted me at once. We flew to the market-place, where flared a huge
bonfire ringed round by all the men of the neighbourhood, squatting or
standing in an expectant circle. On one side sat the Voyvode, with the
priest on his right hand and all his officers round him. There was a
table in front of him with five glasses and a huge flagon of rakija.
Place was made for the Botanik and for me on the Voyvode's left. He
turned to me. "My falcons!" he said in a voice of love and pride, as he
glanced round his men. There was a blue-black night sky overhead with
never a star in it. The petroleum-fed bonfire leapt into a waving banner
of flame and threw hot light on the faces of veterans, stern
frontiersmen, and eager boys, illuminating weapons, blue and crimson
uniforms, medals and gold stitchery in one brave blaze. The kapetan, who
was sitting next us, whipped out his revolver, fired it overhead, and
the fun began. Anyone who felt inspired burst into song, and anyone that
chose joined in. The village rang with national ballads shouted at the
full pitch of huge voices, with the wildest enthusiasm, and a running
fire of revolver shots marked time barbarically--ball cartridge, of
course. Anyone who, carried away by his feelings, fired all six barrels
in succession, was loudly applauded. The glasses were filled, and the
rakija flowed with embarrassing profusion. The Montenegrins are very
moderate drinkers, but it was etiquette for every man of rank to drink
with the guests. The five glasses flew from hand to hand, and the
Botanik and I were hard put to it as one captain after another filled a
glass to us; for to refuse is an insult. "Drink," said the Botanik
desperately, "drink. What must be, must." From time to time the fire was
fed, and, as it blazed again, one youth with a wild yell would challenge
another to dance. Leaping up into the air like young stags, they dashed
into the middle of the ring, dancing madly a kind of Highland fling,
with the flaming bonfire as background, yelling savagely the while they
drew their revolvers, leapt higher and higher, and on the top of the
leap fired over the heads of the shouting crowd, who in their turn beat
time with a volley of bullets; while against the darkness of the night,
fire flashed from the muzzles of upturned weapons all round the ring.
"Take care, brothers! take care!" cried the Voyvode at intervals, when
the angle of fire was dangerously low. And as each pair of youths
finished their dance they threw their arms round each others necks and
kissed one another heartily on both cheeks before making room for
another couple. When both cartridges and rakija were about exhausted,
the Voyvode stood up. "Enough, brothers! Enough!" and he started the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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