Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
To the old man, on the other hand, the scent was the odour of sanctity.
He was filled with awe and reverence, and gazed at the body like one
seeing a wondrous vision for the first time. He bent down slowly and
kissed the slippered feet, the crucifix on the breast, and the
cotton-wool over the face, crossing himself each time. Then, fearful
lest we should omit any part of the ceremony, he seized us each in turn
by the back of the neck, poked our heads into the coffin and held them
down on the right spots. We followed carefully the example he had set,
and completed our pilgrimage to the shrine of St. Vasili. He slowly
closed and locked the coffin, and rearranged the drapery upon it. Then
we debated together as to how an offering was to be made. He, however,
helped us out of the difficulty. He took a small metal bowl from the
window, placed it reverently upon the coffin and counted some very small
coins into it ostentatiously, clink, clink, then turned his back
discreetly and began slowly extinguishing the candles. He allowed just
sufficient time to carry out the approved ritual, and hurried back
eagerly to inspect the bowl. It appeared that we had acted quite
correctly on this occasion also. Coming out through the narrow door into
the open air again, we prepared to go; but the old man stopped us,
pointed upwards, and shouted for someone. The "someone" came, and turned
out to be the Handsome and Haughty Lad who had so cruelly chivied us
down below. He gazed at us with a superior smile, and in obedience to
his orders led us up to a yet higher cavern, where he showed us a spring
of very cold clear water. This is highly prized by the pilgrims to the
shrine, who all bring bottles or gourds to fetch some away in. The Lad,
I think, expected us to do so, and as he had, as he imagined, made us
understand by shouting before, he tried the same system again with great
violence. We hastily remunerated him for his trouble, in hopes of
changing his ideas, and he was sufficiently mollified to shake hands
with us. Whereupon we said good-bye, and left him.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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