Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
Nikshitje is but two hours' drive from the beginning of the Ostrog
track, over a mountain pass and down on to a big plain. Nikshitje, says
the Prince, is to be his new capital, and work is going on there
actively. That it cannot be the capital yet a while seems pretty
certain, for it is a very long way from anywhere, and the foreign
Consuls and Ministers, who at present lament their isolation from the
world and all its joys at Cetinje, would all cry "Jamais, jamais!" in
their best diplomatic French, if called upon to transfer themselves to
the heart of the land. It is certainly very beautifully situated; the
wall of mountains which encircle the big plain is as fine as any in the
country, and it is neither so cold in winter as is Cetinje, nor in
summer so hot and close as the low-lying plain of Podgoritza. But until
there is a road or a railroad that will connect Nikshitje quickly with
the coast, it cannot compete in importance with Cetinje. A line that
would connect Servia with Antivari _via_ Nikshitje, join the two Servian
peoples, and give Servia a port for export, is so much against Austrian
interests, both commercial and political, that Austria will under no
conditions permit it to pass through any territory over which she has
control. There is no speedier way of drawing truthful political
opinions from a mixed company of various nationalities than to design
fancy railroads over tender territories. At present no line exists in
the Balkan peninsula that runs from north-east to south-west. And in the
present disgraceful state of all territory that is under Turkish
"government" no new lines through any of the Sultan's property are
probable. The love of the Montenegrin for Nikshitje is based partly on
sentimental grounds; for the taking of Nikshitje, the biggest Turkish
stronghold on their northern frontier, was one of the chief events of
the last war. Nikshitje fell in 1877, after a four months' siege
conducted by Prince Nikola himself.
That the Prince really intends Nikshitje to be the capital of his
country is evident. We have a forecast of its coming splendour in the
large and really fine church dedicated to St. Vasili, which stands well
placed on a little hill, close by a solid and well-proportioned
building, designed with a stern simplicity well in keeping with the
Montenegrin spirit. Within, it is lofty and spacious, and the bare stone
walls are hung with lists of those who fell in the last war. Russia
found the money, and Montenegro the labour. The mouldings and capitals
are all cut by Montenegrins, and the engineer that built it is a
Montenegrin. Nikshitje has a right to be proud of it. At the foot of the
hill on which the new church stands is a tiny little old church, the
church of the Montenegrins in Turkish times. In those dark days it was
almost completely buried under the earth for safety. Now, with the
addition of a fat new tower, it shows itself in the light of day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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