Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
A boy, his pupil and his only companion in his hermitage, came in with
coffee, and the giving and the accepting of this simple refreshment
seemed to give our host great pleasure. He questioned us about our
relatives, and told us of his own. "Once," he remarked quite casually,
"I was married," but he did not pursue the subject. He told us of the
days when there were only twenty houses in Cetinje--when the chiefs of
the land used to meet in council with the Prince, all sitting on the
ground in a bare shed where a sheep was roasting for their dinner; how
the Prince used to sit under a tree and try prisoners; how there were no
roads, no towns, only a few collections of thatched huts. All this only
twenty years ago! The poetic, imaginative nature of the Montenegrin. "He
lives with the things he imagines. Even now, you see how he carries his
gun, his revolver, his knife! He likes to think that he is guarding his
house and his land. The weapons are a symbol to him. No Montenegrin
likes to go unarmed. In the evening, when he returns to his little
cottage, his wife meets him. She takes his gun and puts it in the
corner. His weapons are laid aside. It is all peace; he is returned to
his wife and children. That is old life. Now it is even said that a
railway will be made. But who knows? Where can there be money for such
an undertaking?" Truly railway companies and all such things seemed
impossibly remote as we sat in this lonely hermitage listening to the
hopes and fears of the ascetic visionary. When we arose to say good-bye,
he stood over us in the doorway and gave us his blessing.
We stepped out into the world again, and looked over the rough moorland
plain. The Turkish frontier fort shone white upon the mountain side
some three miles away, and there was no other sign of life as we stared
over the lonely land. He read our thoughts at once. "It is a wild spot,
yes, and a rough journey that you have made to see me. Few strangers
have yet been here. One day three of your countrymen came, but you are
the first Englishwomen. It is lonely, and even a little dangerous. You
must not try to cross the plain when it is dark, for there are bad men
who rob and kill. Yonder, that is Albania. It is so easy for them to
come across. Even last night there were armed men; they came up towards
my little house and they threatened me with their guns." "And what did
you do?" we asked eagerly. "I stood here," he said simply, "and I cried
to them, 'The Lord God has said, Thou shalt not kill.' Then they went
away," he added, after a pause, in a matter-of-fact manner.
What a scene! The fearless figure alone under the night sky, and the
gang of human beasts shrinking awestruck down the rocks as they heard
out of the darkness "the voice of one crying in the wilderness." We said
farewell. He stood at the top of the path for a few minutes watching our
descent, and as we turned the corner we saw his tall dark figure turning
towards the little chapel "which is his life."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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