Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
When these Herzegovinese migrated to Montenegro, a large body of them
went yet farther afield and settled in the mountains of Abyssinia, among
them a branch of the family of Petrovich of Njegushi, from which is
directly descended Menelik, who preserves the title of Negus and is a
distant cousin of Prince Nikola of Montenegro, and to this large
admixture of Slav blood the Abyssinians owe their fine stature and their
high standard of civilisation, as compared with the neighbouring African
tribes.
The house of the Prince stands on the left of the road as we leave the
town. The road ascends once more; a steep pull up through a bleakness of
grey crags; we reach the top of the pass (3350 feet), and turn a corner.
"Cetinje!" (Tsetinye), says the driver briefly, and there, in the
mountain-locked plain far below, lies the little red-roofed town, a
village city, a kindergarten capital, one of the quaintest sights in
Europe, so tiny, so entirely wanting in the usual stock properties of a
big town and yet so consciously a capital. Two wide streets which run
parallel and are joined by various cross streets make up the greater
part of it, and it has some 3000 inhabitants. As we enter the town the
first building of importance stands up on the left hand, brand-new, a
white stone building with a black roof. To any other capital it would
not be remarkable either for size or beauty; here it looms large and
portentous. It is the biggest building in the town, and it is the Palace
of the Austro-Hungarian Legation. Not to be outdone, Russia has just
erected an equally magnificent building at the other end of the town,
which now lies between representatives of the two rival powers. "Which
things are an allegory." Twenty years ago Cetinje was a collection of
thatched hovels. To-day, modest as they are, the houses are all solidly
built and roofed with tiles. Few more than one storey high, many
consisting only of a ground floor, all of them devoid of any attempt at
architecture; not a moulding, a cornice, or a porch breaks the general
baldness: they are more like a row of toy houses all out of the same box
than anything else. The road is very wide, and very white; a row of
little clipped trees border it on each side, so clipped that they afford
at present about as much shade as telegraph posts, and they all appear
to have come out of the same box too. It is all very clean, very neat;
not a whiff offends the tenderest nostril, not a cabbage stalk lies in
the gutter. It is not merely a toy, but a brand-new one that has not yet
been played with.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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