Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
Acting on the principle of "Do as you would be done by," when his pouch
is full, he distributes tobacco lavishly along the route with a fine
"Damn-the-expense" air which one cannot but admire, and when not a shred
remains, he begs it, quite shamelessly, of everyone he meets. When I
first made his acquaintance, his appearance puzzled me. Learning that he
was an Albanian, I remarked upon the fact to him; he immediately crossed
himself hastily. "Yes, an Albanian," he admitted, "but Cattolici,
Cattolici," and he added as an extra attraction, "and I came to
Montenegro when I was very little." He persists in regarding me as a
co-religionist; for the fact that I am neither Orthodox nor Mohammedan
is to him quite sufficient proof. His Catholicism is quite original.
Unlike most Catholic Albanians, who display a horror of the Orthodox
Church, he is most pressing in his attentions to the Orthodox priests,
and will never, if he can help it, be left out of a circle of
conversation that includes one. One Easter Day I saw him persist in
kissing, in Orthodox fashion, the village priest, who having more than
enough osculation to go through with his own flock, did his best to
dodge him, but was loudly smacked upon the back of the neck. His views
upon doctrinal points are mixed, but his simple creed has taught him
faith, hope, and charity "which is the greatest of the three."
Withal he is a bit of a buck, and likes to cut a dash in what he
considers large towns. He strolls in when I am having dinner and
converses with the company at large; he makes me a flowery speech--he is
my servant; it is mine to command and his to obey; whatever I order he
will carry out with pleasure. When he learns that I shall not require
him till to-morrow, he beams all over his sun-tanned face. Then he
fidgets and makes pointless remarks. I do not help him. He strolls with
elaborate carelessness behind my chair and whispers hurriedly that towns
are very expensive, and if I would only advance him a florin or two of
his pay--I supply the needful, and later I meet him, a happy man,
playing the duke among a crowd of friends, to all of whom he introduces
me with great style and elegance. But his dissipations are very mild,
though from the swagger he puts on you would think they were bold and
bad. I have never seen him the worse for drink, and he is punctuality
itself and very honest. Child of the race with about the worst
reputation in Europe though he is, I would trust him under most
circumstances.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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