When all the traps had been gathered it was 2.30, and Hanza enquired
whether I would stay for the night at a village near by or go on to
Badiko, which was three hours’ march. Personally, I would have preferred
pushing on, but the men had been out 7½ hours in great heat, had not
stopped at any place where they could get a meal, and had three high
stream crossings, so after a little consideration I elected to stay at
the village overnight.
There were notes of gratification at the announcement, and at once we
struck inwards, passing, left and right, a plantation set with yams;
then between guinea-corn 10 feet high, the stems bending and providing
a shaded avenue; ground-nuts just in leaf, set at right-angles to the
path and growing on ridges, the furrows as neatly weeded as any kitchen
garden in England.
As we went across the open fields Hanza called to some people in the
distance “Kow abinshi” (“Bring food”), and the cry was gladly repeated
by the carriers—“Kow abinshi, Kow abinshi.” The hearers proceeded to
carry out the request and to obtain the articles necessary for a little
business, which to the Hausa women is second nature.
The tiny village into which we stepped was surrounded by guinea-corn
taller than I had seen anywhere. The stems were 12 feet from the ground,
completely hiding the mud houses. A roomy, circular one, not arranged by
the Government—for the place is off the main bush track—but one belonging
to the Headman of the village, a Fulani, was placed at my disposal. He
brought fowls, a pumpkin, and had yams dug up. The inclusive charge for
the house as well was 4s. He explained that no guinea-corn could be
spared for the horses, so the doki boys were sent to cut grass.
Next morning came the villagers who had shown the river crossing. They
were given 6d. each. As I came out of the house the second doki boy
appeared. He wanted a “dash” for having swum his horse across the river
the previous day. I asked him for what he thought I paid him wages; he
shrugged his shoulders and smiled. Then I said that any “dash” I might
give him would be at the end, not the beginning of his services, when I
knew how he had done his work. Again a broad smile. Finally, I told the
gentleman that the next time he asked for a “dash” I would discharge
him instantly. A bow, and a “To, Zaki”—(“Very good, sir”)—was the
acknowledgment. The “To”—pronounced “Taw”—was repeated by the circle of
carriers who had come, doubtless at his invitation, to see the result of
the doki boy’s experiment with the new master. It had failed.
To get to Juga that day was not within the range of trekking at this
season, so Badiko, where I had calculated to be more than 40 hours
earlier, was selected for the day’s halt. The village Headman led the
way from the village—the name of which I gathered phonetically as Lafee
Sala—through a maze of growing guinea-corn to open country. At the edge
of the plantation, land formerly cultivated had reverted to a wild state.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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