Traversing a few miles of bush country, we pass hills of rock, showing,
with uneven tops, one line behind another. Occasionally 15 feet boulders
are at the side of the path, rolled down from the mountains, cut and
severed by perpetual rain wearing away this hardest of granite until
it breaks and tumbles below. Mountains hundreds of feet high have huge
slabs resting on the solid hill. Intense heat has expanded, and sharp
cold the same day has contracted, the rock, splitting it into slabs and
dome-shaped crags. All around, on the rocky hill and over the earthy
soil, there are the grass, trees, and the low bush of Northern Nigeria,
with patches here and there of guinea-corn, sweet potatoes, ground-nuts
and yams. The entire acreage is cultivatable.
Small Hausa villages are passed. At one, native-grown cotton is being
drawn into thread by the naked fingers. Badiko is reached at 9.45 a.m.
and a stop made until the following morning. Water and wood are brought
by a little maiden and her small brother, both bearing the necessaries
on their heads in the orthodox fashion.
The first hour or so at a rest-house are occupied by attending to the
domestic details, when one has to superintend them oneself. The cook
receives his instructions for the day and perhaps is sent to market
for articles not provided by the village Headman. The horse must be
looked after. It is a sound precaution to always have him fed within
sight; otherwise the doki boy will take the “chop” for his own larder
and the pony be in the plight of the “poor little dog” in the nursery
rhyme of Mother Hubbard. The amount of guinea-corn I give out is 2 lbs.
before starting in the early morning, 2 lbs. on arrival at the day’s
destination, and 4 lbs. about 5.30 p.m. after watering, with plenty of
dry cut grass. Two lbs. can be gauged as two double handsful. A full day
with the pen will find you quite ready for bed at 7 o’clock.
I fixed 5 as the hour for starting next morning. Four o’clock is my
favourite time to commence trekking, 3.30 is still better; but, for
either, a clearly-seen roadway or a full moon is required, and as at this
period the nights are quite dark and we are mostly on bush paths, it is
desirable not to set out until at least the approach of daybreak. The
early start enables 18 miles, which is as much as carriers will cover,
except in emergency, to be done by 9 or 10 o’clock; allows marching in
the coolest hours, and gives a full day for work.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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