It is remarkable how a reliable Headman, without watch, moon, or sun,
will wake up and rouse his men at any hour. But if I can avoid doing so
I never rely entirely upon anybody. My watch had been rather erratic
and was not quite sure at the end of a day whether to be 20 minutes fast
or 20 minutes slow. It refrained from registering the happy mean. In
order to run no risk of being late next morning, the night at Badiko I
put it on an hour, there being, of course, no clock to check by. I had
not met a European since leaving Rahama. As might have been expected, it
was eventually discovered that before the alteration the watch had been
20 minutes ahead of meridian time, so instead of rising at 4 o’clock
as intended, I turned out at 2.30 a.m. and within an hour had finished
breakfast. When the fact became clear that I had anticipated the time
of assembly, I sat down to an hour-and-a-half of writing by a hurricane
lamp. At 4.45, not waiting for Hanza’s whistle, I sounded my own. He,
however, was ready; repeated the sound; and we sallied out just as a thin
streak of dawn appeared across the eastward sky.
As the sun rose we wound round great hills of rock, circular, oblong,
pointed, and flat topped, the liquid deposit of past ages now gneissose
and hegmatite. Here and there the face had been washed by recent floods
to a brightness which in the distance looked like a mirror of running
water.
At 7.45 a halt was made in the market-place of Magama village for the
carriers to have breakfast. Ground-nuts, maize, and milk made up the
meal, Hanza having a rather superior course of milk mixed with powdered
millet and taken from a calabash by a wooden spoon. When they had
finished eating every man washed his mouth and teeth at a stream, and one
good-looking young Hausa completed his toilet by placing antimony on his
eyelids. Another had utilised a few spare minutes by bringing needle and
cotton and mending a garment: scarcely an indication of “the lazy black.”
At 8.30 Hanza’s whistle caused the loads to be hoisted and five minutes
later the chilling wind gave sign of rain, which presently came in
torrents. Mr F. G. Graham, in charge of Lucky Chance Polchi Mine,
hearing I was in the neighbouring village and noting signs of the coming
downpour, had ridden out and left an invitation with the head of the
little column for me to shelter at his house, near by. At the path
leading to the haven of hospitality Mr Graham’s servant waited to direct
me. But what the carriers, my own servants, and the doki boys had to
endure without any protection was quite good enough for me, in oilskin
and mounted, so, with a message of thanks to Mr Graham, I went on with
the men, who were being drenched.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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