A sharp change of temperature occurs as we pass Cape Verde, nine days
out. A little beyond this point is the great Gambia River, which comes
out heated by the scorching winds of the Sahara Desert, and at the mouth
of the river there are also flowing up towards us warm currents from
the south. It is not uncommon for hardy voyagers to be weakened and
temporarily knocked over by the sudden rise of temperature. These are the
figures we experience:
Thursday 10 a.m. 72° off Cape Blanco.
Friday 10 a.m. 78° approaching Cape Verde.
Saturday 10 a.m. 82°.
Saturday 4.40 p.m. 86° in a well-ventilated cabin with an
electrical fan running.
Saturday 4.40 p.m. 90° on deck of the ship at full speed, under
a stout awning.
At Sierra Leone—eleven days from Liverpool—the ship’s company is
augmented by a number of Kru sailors, who proceed to a spring-cleaning
with a zest and enjoyment unmistakable.
The Kruman is the seaman of West Africa. His villages are on the
seashore. He is put in the water and made to swim from babyhood. He can
be seen coming to a ship, on rough, rolling waves, in a frail canoe
crudely cut or burnt out from the trunk of a soft-wood tree. A couple
of small boys will paddle such a canoe two or three miles out to sea.
At certain parts of the Coast the lads dive for coppers thrown from an
anchored vessel, and do it as unconcernedly as though they were in a calm
river instead of a place frequented by sharks. Yet no fatalities are
known, which is probably due to the noise the youngsters make. Should a
shark be espied hovering near, several of the boys will even swim towards
it, shouting, yelling, and splashing, and the brute, who is a coward,
slips away.
At Axim, Gold Coast, three days beyond Sierra Leone, a further complement
of Krumen are shipped. Each batch is of a different tribe. That from
Sierra Leone consists of Nana Krus; at Axim they have come from the
Beri-Beri country, on the French Grain Coast. Some years ago they
clandestinely left French territory, where they were compelled to labour
on public works, and founded a small settlement near Axim, for the
purpose of serving on British ships. At one time the French prevented
shipment from their own shore unless at a tax per man, but now there is
no objection to enlistment at recognised ports of entry. Krus who have
made homes in the British sphere prefer to remain there.
Considerable difference is noticeable between the two tribes mentioned.
The Nanas are greatly inferior in physique and stamina. The degeneration
is due to evils resulting from the “civilisation” to be found in certain
districts of Sierra Leone. The Beri-Beris, who have been freer from these
influences, are a much better type. In a set period, fifteen of the
latter will do more work, with less effort, than can be carried out by
twenty-five of the former in the same time.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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