I had imagined that the previous enjoyment would be multiplied many
fold at Kano, famous Kano. Everything possible had been done to prevent
mishaps. The house had been engaged. It was one of those the Government
has put up for travellers passing through. True it was a circular hut
of mud and straw, but, I was told, two French officers were occupying a
similar dwelling, so it was as good as I had any warrant to expect. The
train by which I was to arrive had been notified to the quarter that had
a right to know. Nothing seemed omitted from the preliminary arrangements.
No more forlorn figure landed on a foreign shore than the writer of
these lines presented, to himself at least, as he stood on the ground
known as Kano Station. He knew only a single person in Kano, and, for
what appeared justifiable cause, he would not humble himself by sending a
message to that individual. No porters are at Kano, and there the fresh
arrival stood, helpless to move, with a couple of dozen heavy boxes. He
had not the slightest idea of the situation of the hut in which he was to
live, and nobody present could inform him. It was a pretty predicament.
Of course, there was a cause for the embarrassing situation, but it need
not be explained.
An hour passed, and then someone saw who had a heart. As on several
occasions in the course of this journey aid came from a Baro-Kano Railway
man. Mr A. W. Brayscher, Traffic Assistant, the officer in charge of Kano
terminus, came up and asked if he could be of service. Having told him,
minus details, how badly stranded I was, he offered a mud and straw hut
similar to the adjacent one in which he lived, belonging to the railway
and used by engine-drivers. It was eagerly accepted and the impedimenta
promptly transferred under its roof. Here I thought to settle down for a
week, and, at all events, to be conscious of a spirit of independence.
But my troubles were not ended. Food now became a consideration. For that
water was necessary. Where was it to be obtained? I learned, at a well
“over there,” the locality indicated being a field half-a-mile away. If,
my reader, you desire to be satisfied with, if not thankful for, the high
charges of your British Municipality or Metropolitan Water Board, come
to a place like Kano and prove what it is to be compelled to go out and
find a well sunk in a spot unrevealed until you are actually at it. The
humour (?) of the situation is the richer by your being conscious that
you have been warned that the quality of the liquid is suspect.
Be the water whatever it might, it must be had. One has not necessarily
to get desperate in order to have that frame of mind. One has only to
be hungry and very thirsty, the thirst accompanied by a headache which
produces a positive craving for a cup of tea.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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