It is beautiful, oh, how beautiful! but it is a beauty that awakens
a feeling of solemnity and awe. We call it the "Divine Abyss." It
seems as much of heaven as of earth. Of the many descriptions of it,
none seems adequate. To rave over it, or to pour into it a torrent
of superlatives, is of little avail. My companion came nearer the
mark when she quietly repeated from Revelation, "And he carried me
away in the spirit to a great and high mountain, and shewed me that
great city, the holy Jerusalem." It does, indeed, suggest a far-off,
half-sacred antiquity, some greater Jerusalem, Egypt, Babylon, or
India. We speak of it as a scene: it is more like a vision, so
foreign is it to all other terrestrial spectacles, and so
surpassingly beautiful.
To ordinary folk the sight is so extraordinary, so unlike everything
one's experience has yielded, and so unlike the results of the usual
haphazard working of the blind forces of nature, that I did not
wonder when people whom I met on the rim asked me what I supposed
did all this. I could even sympathize with the remark of an old
woman visitor who is reported to have said that she thought they had
built the canon too near the hotel. The enormous cleavage which the
canon shows, the abrupt drop from the brink of thousands of feet,
the sheer faces of perpendicular walls of dizzy height, give at
first the impression that it is all the work of some titanic
quarryman, who must have removed cubic miles of strata as we remove
cubic yards of earth. Go out to Hopi Point or O'Neil's Point, and,
as you emerge from the woods, you get a glimpse of a blue or
rose-purple gulf opening before you. The solid ground ceases
suddenly, and an aerial perspective, vast and alluring, takes its
place; another heaven, countersunk in the earth, transfixes you on
the brink. "Great God!" I can fancy the first beholder of it saying,
"what is this? Do I behold the transfiguration of the earth? Has the
solid ground melted into thin air? Is there a firmament below as
well as above? Has the earth veil at last been torn aside, and the
red heart of the globe been laid bare?" If this first witness was
not at once overcome by the beauty of the earthly revelation before
him, or terrified by its strangeness and power, he must have stood
long, awed, spellbound, speechless with astonishment, and thrilled
with delight. He may have seen vast and glorious prospects from
mountaintops, he may have looked down upon the earth and seen it
unroll like a map before him; but he had never before looked into
the earth as through a mighty window or open door, and beheld depths
and gulfs of space, with their atmospheric veils and illusions and
vast perspectives, such as he had seen from mountain-summits, but
with a wealth of color and a suggestion of architectural and
monumental remains, and a strange, almost unearthly beauty, such as
no mountain-view could ever have afforded him. Three features of the
canon strike one at once: its unparalleled magnitude, its
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