One of the most surprising features of the Grand canon is its
cleanness--its freedom from debris. It is a home of the gods, swept
and garnished; no litter or confusion or fragments of fallen and
broken rocky walls anywhere. Those vast sloping taluses are as clean
as a meadow; rarely at the foot of the huge vertical walls do you
see a fragment of fallen rock. It is as if the processes of erosion
and degradation were as gentle as the dews and the snows, and carved
out this mighty abyss grain by grain, which has probably been the
case. That much of this red sandstone, from the amount of iron it
contains, or from some other cause, disintegrates easily and
rapidly, is very obvious. Looking down from Hopi Point upon a vast
ridge called the "Man-of-War," one sees on the top, where once there
must have been a huge wall of rock, a long level area of red soil
that suggests a garden, the more so because it is regularly divided
up into sections by straight lines of huge stone placed as if by the
hands of man.
One's sense of the depths of the canyon is so great that it almost
makes one dizzy to see the little birds fly out over it, or plunge
down into it. One seems to fear that they too will get dizzy and
fall to the bottom. We watched a line of tourists on mules creeping
along the trail across the inner plateau, and the unaided eye had
trouble to hold them; they looked like little red ants. The eye has
more difficulty in estimating sizes and distances beneath it than
when they are above or on a level with it, because it is so much
less familiar with depth than with height or lateral dimensions.
Another remarkable and unexpected feature of the canyon is its look
of ordered strength. Nearly all the lines are lines of greatest
strength. The prevailing profile line everywhere is that shown
herewith. The upright lines represent lines of cyclopean masonry,
and the slant is the talus that connects them, covered with a short,
sage-colored growth of some kind, and as soft to the eye as the turf
of our fields. The simple, strong structural lines assert themselves
everywhere, and give that look of repose and security characteristic
of the scene. The rocky forces always seem to retreat in good order
before the onslaught of time; there is neither rout nor confusion;
everywhere they present a calm upright front to the foe. And the
fallen from their ranks, where are they? A cleaner battlefield
between the forces of nature one rarely sees.
The weaker portions are, of course, constantly giving way. The
elements incessantly lay siege to these fortresses and take
advantage of every flaw or unguarded point, so that what stands has
been seven times, yea, seventy times seven times tested, and hence
gives the impression of impregnable strength. The angles and curves,
the terraces and foundations, seem to be the work of some master
engineer, with only here and there a toppling rock.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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