After we were rested and refreshed, and had sampled the mangoes that
had fallen from a tree near the house, Mr. Aiken took us in his
automobile up into the famous Iao Valley, at the mouth of which
Wailuku is situated. It is a deep, striking chasm carved out of the
mountain by the stream, rank with verdure of various kinds, and
looked down upon by sharp peaks and ridges five or six thousand feet
high. We soon reached the clear rapid, brawling stream, as bright as
a Catskill mountain trout brook, and after a mile or two along its
course we came to the end of the road, where we left the machine and
took a trail that wound onward and upward over a slippery surface
and through dripping bushes, for we here began to reach the skirts
of the little showers that almost constantly career over and about
the interior of these mountains. I neither saw nor heard a bird or
other live thing. Guava apples lay on the ground all along the
trail, and one could eat them and not make faces. Some of the sharp,
knife-blade ridges that cut down toward us from the higher peaks
were very startling, and so steep and high that they could be
successfully scaled only by the aid of ropes and ladders. A more
striking object-lesson in erosion by rain would be hard to find.
There were no naked rocks; short, thick vegetation covered even the
steepest slopes, and the vegetable acids which this generated, and
the perpetual rains, weathered the mountains down. It soon became so
wet that we stopped far short of the head of the valley, and turned
back. I wished to look into the great, deep, green amphitheatre
which seems to lie at the head, but had glimpses of it only from a
distance. How many millenniums will it be, I said to myself, before
erosion will have completed its work here, and these thin, high
mountain-walls will be in ruins? Surely not many.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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