We returned to the hospitable home we had left, and passed the
midday there. In the afternoon Mr. Aiken, guiding our eyes by the
forms of trees that cut the horizon-line on the huge flank of
Haleakala, pointed out the place of his own homestead, twenty or
more miles away. From this point the great mountain appeared like a
vast landscape tilted up at an easy angle against the horizon. One
could hardly believe it was ten thousand feet high. The machine
climbed easily more than half the distance to Mr. Aiken's
plantation, which we reached in good time in the afternoon, and
where we passed a very enjoyable night. It was a surprise to find
swarms of mosquitoes at this altitude, so free from all
mosquito-breeding waters. But the house was well protected against
them. Mosquitoes, as well as flies and vermin, are not native to the
island. They came in ships not very long ago, and are now very
troublesome in certain parts. They came round the Horn. Mr. Aiken's
house itself came round the Horn seventy or eighty years ago. It is
a quaint, New England type of house, and has a very homelike look.
In front of it, near the gate, stands a Japanese pine which is an
object of veneration to all Japanese who chance to come that way.
Often their eyes fill with tears on beholding it, so responsive are
the little yellow men to associations of home.
In the morning Mr. Aiken drove us in a wagon to a place he has
called "Idlewild," six miles farther up the great slope of the
mountain. This slope of Haleakala is like a whole township,
diversified with farms and woods, valleys and hills, resting on its
elbows, so to speak, and looking out over the Pacific. We could look
up to the cloud-line, about seven thousand feet above the sea, and
occasionally get a glimpse of the long line of the summit through
rifts in the clouds. At Idlewild our expedition, consisting of six
mules and four people, was fitted out, and in the early afternoon we
started on the trail up the mountain.
For several miles our way led over grassy slopes where cattle were
grazing, and above which skylarks were singing. This was one of the
happy surprises of the trip--the soaring and singing skylarks. All
the way till we reached the cloud-belt, we had the larks pouring
down their music from the sky above us. They seemed specially
jubilant. It was May in England, too, and they sang as though the
spirit of those downs and fells was stirring in their hearts, under
alien skies, but true to the memories of home.
Before we reached the summit we came upon another introduction from
overseas--the English pheasant. One started up from some bushes only
a few yards from the trail, went booming away, and disappeared in a
deep gully. A little later another sprang up, uttering a cackling
cry as it flew away. We saw three altogether. The only home thing we
saw was white clover in patches here and there, and it gave a most
welcome touch to the unfamiliar scenes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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