The ferns come slowly marching in from without, but in the centre of
the crater, on the slopes of the red cones and at their bases, is
another plant that seems indigenous, born of the ash and the scoria
of the volcano, and that apparently has no chlorophyl in its
make-up. This is a striking plant, called the silver sword, from the
shape and color of its long, narrow leaves. They are the color of
frosted silver, and are curved like a sword. It is a strange
apparition, white and delicate and rare, springing up in the crater
of a slumbering volcano. A more striking contrast with the
atmosphere of the surroundings would be hard to find--a suggestion
of peace and purity above the graves of world-destroying forces, an
angel of light nourished by the ashes of the demons of death and
darkness.
It is claimed by the people of the island that this plant is found
in no other place on the globe, but this can hardly be possible. If
its evolution took place in one crater, it would take place in
another. It consists of a great mass of silvery-white, bristling
leaves resting upon the ground, from which rises a stalk, strung
with flowers, to the height of five or six feet. It is evidently of
the Yucca type of plant, and has met with a singular transformation
in the sleeping volcano's mouth, all its harsh and savage character
turned into gentleness and grace, its armament of needles and
daggers giving place to a soft, silvery down. We did not see the
plant growing except at a great distance, through field-glasses, but
we saw a photograph of it and a dried specimen after we came down
from the summit.
It is an all day's trip down into the crater and back, climbing over
sliding sands and loose scoria, and our time was too limited to
undertake it. We passed the night on the summit in a rude stone hut,
which had a fireplace where the guide made coffee, but we had only
the volcanic rock for floor. Upon this we spread our ample supply of
blankets, and got such sleep as is to be had on high, cold
mountain-tops, where the ribs of the mountain prove to be so much
harder than one's own ribs--not a first-class quality of sleep, but
better than none.
I arose about two o'clock, and made my way out into the star-blazing
night. Such glory of the heavens I had never before seen. I had
never before been lifted up so near them, and hence had never before
seen them through so rarefied an atmosphere. The clouds and vapors
had disappeared, and all the hosts of heaven were magnified. The
Milky Way seemed newly paved and swept. There was no wind and no
sound. The mighty crater was a gulf of blackness, but the sky blazed
with light.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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