The dawn comes early on such a mountain-top, and before four o'clock
we were out under the fading stars. As we had seen the day pass into
night, surrounded by these wonderful scenes, now we saw the night
pass into day, and the elemental grandeur on every hand reborn
before us. There was not a wisp of cloud or fog below us or about us
to blur the great picture. The sun came up from behind the vast,
long, high wall of the Pacific that filled the eastern horizon, and
the shadows fled from the huge pile of mountain in the west. We hung
about the rim of the great crater or sat upon the jagged rocks,
wrapped in our blankets, till the sun was an hour high.
We got another glimpse of the band of goats picking their way from
ledge to ledge far below us on the side of the crater. I saw and
heard two or three mina birds fly past, apparently seeking new
territory to occupy. These birds are more enterprising than the
English sparrows, which also swarm in the island towns but do not
brave the mountain-heights. The bird from India seems at home
everywhere.
After breakfast we still haunted for an hour or more the brink of
the great abyss, where one seemed to feel the pulse of primal time,
loath to tear ourselves away, loath also to take a last view of the
panorama of land and sea, lit by the morning sun, which spread out
far below us. To the southeast we could dimly see the outlines of
the island of Hawaii, with a faint gleam of snow on its great
mountain Mauna Loa, nearly fourteen thousand feet high. In the
northwest a dim, dark mass low in the horizon marked the place of
Oahu. The ocean rose in the vast horizon and blended with the sky.
The eye could not tell where one ended and the other began.
The mules had had a comfortable night in a rude stone stable against
the rocks, and were more eager to hit the down trail than were we.
The descent proved more fatiguing than the ascent, the constant
plunging motion of the animals' shoulders being a sore trial. We
dropped down through the belt of clouds that had begun to form, and
out into the grassy region of the singing skylarks, past herds of
grazing cattle, and at noon were again at Idlewild, resting our
weary limbs and comforting the inner man.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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