British -- China -- Tibet Autonomous Region; Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
Hereabouts we passed the 'hot springs,' where still lay what was left
of the corpses of many Tibetans who had fallen in the fight that had
occurred there some months before. We had, I am told, once actually
buried these corpses when we found that the enemy were making no effort
in that direction; but the Tibetans, holding curious theories on the
subject, had again unearthed them. The principle that apparently governs
Tibetan obsequies is the desirability of making a corpse fulfil its
natural function as food for animals. Hence exposure of corpses as food
for wolves or vultures causes them no pang. They even, it is said, so
far elaborate the above principle as to regard a corpse as specially
honoured when given as food to the domestic pig, the origin of this
development of the principle being of course really utilitarian; for the
high-placed Tibetan, since in his life he 'feeds high and lives soft,'
must of necessity in his death be specially nutritious. Lama-fed pork
is--so they say--regarded as the greatest of delicacies.
Leaving Dochen and the lake, on the bank of which it lies, we turned up
a valley to our left, and emerged at Kalatso, the name given to the post
which adjoins the lake of the same name. From here we marched along the
Kalatso plain to Menza. The next day was to bring us into Kangma.
My commanding officer was with the first column, and had given me orders
to ride on early on alternate days to meet him at the camp ahead of me
before he left the latter. His hour for leaving each such camp would be
9 A.M., by which hour I had to arrive there. I had to bring a sergeant
with me on each occasion. It was fifteen miles from Menza to Kangma. The
road was rather rough, so they said, but one could cover the distance in
two hours and a half, so I decided to start with the sergeant at
half-past six. At a quarter-past six I found that my pony had bruised a
fetlock against a stone in the night and was distinctly lame. I could
not get another mount, and had to share the sergeant's, and we had
little more than our two hours and a half for the journey. It so
happened that I had just been reading a story of primitive life in
Western America, called 'The Little Shepherd of Kingdom Come,' in which
a very sound method by which two men can travel on one horse is alluded
to. A. starts on horseback at, say, eight miles an hour, and B. on foot
at, say, four miles. When A. has gone a given distance he dismounts,
ties the horse to the nearest tree or stone, and proceeds on foot. Up in
due course comes B., mounts the horse, and, riding on, should overtake
A. just when A. has finished his fair share of walking; after which the
process is repeated to the end of the journey.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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