British -- China -- Tibet Autonomous Region; Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
I got a good view of the Naini fight, seeing most of it in company with
the General's Staff. A portion of the Gyantse garrison had come out to
assist, and peppered the village and lamasarai from a high hill above,
while our own column enveloped them from other directions. We made some
fine big holes in their walls, and many a bee's nest of laymen and
fighting monks was disturbed by a well-directed shell. Later on came the
turn of the infantry at what must have been unpleasantly close quarters.
The fighting in Tibet was of course, in one sense, quite a minor matter.
But, on the other hand, it was quite a distinctive kind of fighting,
and, as such, does not deserve to be ignored. My share in those fights
was mainly that of an interested spectator, and in this capacity I give
my opinion of it.
I should say that for any one who, like myself, never had to go within a
certain distance of the position, there could be no more gentlemanly
way of getting your baptism of fire than on a Tibetan battlefield. The
jingal, for instance, is a delightful weapon at that range. Of course,
if a jingal bullet hit you (a heavy rough-hewn thing of about three
inches diameter), it would make a hole that it would take a lot of
surgery to fill up. But normally, in the latter stages of its flight,
the jingal bullet lets you know it is coming. Furthermore, except at
close range, it is very inaccurate. So if what you desire on the
battlefield is mild excitement, with the minimum of risk, I would
recommend exposing yourself to jingal-fire at, say, from six to twelve
hundred yards.
A very different tale would be that of the fighter in the firing line.
Most of the fights in Tibet involved not only street-fighting but
house-fighting, and this species of fun generally began immediately
after a steep climb of several hundred feet. I can imagine few greater
physical and moral trials in modern warfare than that endured by those
officers and men of ours, who, while gasping for breath after a race up
a steep slope in that rare air, penetrated in small parties first
through narrow streets, then into dingy courtyards, and lastly into
byres and store-rooms and living-rooms that were generally pitch dark,
not knowing from what hole or corner, or with what murderous form of
clumsy firearm, they might not at any moment be fired upon by an unseen
foe at close quarters. For the sake of those who went through this trial
and were not found wanting, Tibetan warfare should not be despised.
The fight at Naini was waged for many weary hours. Its spectacular charm
had soon worn off. The juxtaposition of fierce excitement and deadly
boredom is a strange feature of warfare. There, two hundred yards away,
men were killing one another, and here were some of us positively
yawning!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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