Transcriber’s Note: Italic text is enclosed in _underscores_. TO MESOPOTAMIA AND KURDISTAN IN DISGUISE [Illustration: A JAF CHIEF, S. KURDISTAN. [_Frontispiece._ ] TO MESOPOTAMIA AND KURDISTAN IN DISGUISE WITH HISTORICAL NOTICES OF THE KURDISH TRIBES AND THE CHALDEANS OF KURDISTAN BY E. B. SOANE [Illustration] BOSTON SMALL, MAYNARD AND COMPANY PUBLISHERS PREFATORY NOTE The following chapters are a plain narrative of a journey across Mesopotamia and in Southern Kurdistan, made up from a journal kept throughout the voyage from Constantinople to Bagdad through those countries. I think I may fairly claim that I have given here a description of a great deal so far undescribed, also a view of places, already known, from another standpoint. Several of the situations have made it necessary to mention the fact of a knowledge of Persian, extensive enough to enable the writer to pass among Persians as one of themselves. Lest this appear a needless and offensive boast, I would say that the incidents demand its mention, and it is explained in the course of the narrative. In the historical portions of the book, in so far as more modern history is concerned, I have been enabled to give some entirely new matter, for that on Kurdish history was supplied me in letters received from Shah Ali of Aoraman, Shaikh Reza of Kirkuk, Tahir Beg Jaf, Majid Beg Jaf, Muhammad Ali Beg Jaf, while a great part was communicated during conversations at Halabja and Sulaimania. This information, then, I think is unique. As to the chapter on Chaldean history, I am deeply indebted to M. Badria, Rais-i-Millat of Mousil, also to his brother Habib Badria, who, having access to old histories in Mousil, were generous enough to allow me the benefit of their information. There is, I am afraid, an overwhelming use of the first personal pronoun, which I trust may be forgiven, for without it the story would not be a personal one. The tone of the narrative may betoken, perhaps, a partiality to the Kurds; and I must admit, that having met from them more genuine kindness--unclaimed--than from any other collection of strangers met elsewhere, I owe them a large debt of gratitude, the least return for which is to throw some light upon a national character hitherto represented as being but an epitome of all that is savage, treacherous, and inhuman. E. B. S. MOHAMMERAH. CONTENTS CHAP. PAGE I.--IN STAMBOUL 1