To Mesopotamia and Kurdistan in disguise : $b with historical notices of the Kurdish tribes and the Chaldeans of KurdistanSoane, Ely Banister
History
To Mesopotamia and Kurdistan in disguise : $b with historical notices of the Kurdish tribes and the Chaldeans of Kurdistan
Soane, Ely Banister
Iraq -- Description and travel; Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Tigris River Valley -- Description and travel
A few words are necessary here of Jazira. It was occupied for a long
time by the Romans, who built the citadel, but before that its position
at the entrance to the mountain system of Masius gave it importance as
the outpost of the city of Nineveh, in Assyrian times, an importance
it retained till quite recently, when Turkish influence has killed it.
The ill-fated pretender Meherdates passed here in A.D. 49, on his way
south, and the Emperor Trajan, a century later, made it a depôt for
the wood he cut in the mountains, to build ships for the invasion of
Babylonia, then in Parthian hands. We are told that it suffered much
at the hands of wild Kurds, and later it has been the scene of many
bloody battles. For many years it was owned and ruled by the Khans of
the great Hakkiari tribe of Kurds, and was a Chaldean centre while they
ruled there. In the world of Oriental literature it claims a position
as the birthplace of Ibn ul Athir, a great Arabian historian, who was
born there A.D. 1230. To-day the mixed population has a reputation for
roguery, treachery, and lawlessness.
Here begins the great plain, which, occasionally broken by
insignificant hills, at last, below the Sinjar range south of Mosul,
drops to the dead level of the Mesopotamian plain, which, unrelieved by
even a mound, stretches right away to the Persian Gulf.
The passage from Jazira is usually, in springtime, reckoned as two
days, but we were not to be so fortunate. Our raft, very heavy to
row, presented a large surface to the wind, and the day after leaving
Jazira, a strong breeze drove us against the bank. We struck with a
terrifying crack of tree-trunks, and some skins burst, no serious
damage really occurring. It was sufficient, however, for the army. With
one accord, crying out curses upon the river and the wind, they rushed
to the edge of the raft nearest shore, and despite a 5-foot bank, past
which we were skimming at a high speed (for we had not stuck), they
leaped off, leaving coats, shoes, and food behind. Two or three had
near escapes from drowning, and all got partially immersed in the icy
water. Scrambling to the top, they attempted to pursue us, screaming
to us to stop--in their folly imagining it possible--but the thorns
and the pace at which we went, soon convinced them of the uselessness
of haste, and they desisted and were left standing in the desert--and
blaspheming.
[Sidenote: RUN AGROUND]
We had not come off quite unscathed. A corner of the raft was badly
broken, the loss of skins allowed a considerable portion to sink under
water. Moreover, a thole-pin was wrenched out of place, making rowing
very difficult. Worst of all, the current became very swift, and we
could find no place with water sufficiently slack to allow mooring.
Till sunset we had to go on, when a fortunate side-current--out of
which we foolishly tried our best to row--took us round the corner
to a quiet pool, and we tied up on the bank opposite to that of the
soldiers’ desertion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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