Toledo: an historical and descriptive account of the "City of generations"Calvert, Albert Frederick
History
Toledo: an historical and descriptive account of the "City of generations"
Calvert, Albert Frederick
Art -- Spain -- Toledo; Toledo (Spain) -- Description and travel; Toledo (Spain) -- History
We should, perhaps, have described the exterior of the Cathedral first,
but from the sightseer’s point of view the interior is, of course, more
important. It is a general subject of complaint that it is extremely
difficult to obtain a good view of any considerable part of the fabric
from the outside, nor does it stand out as conspicuously from a distance
as its imposing dimensions would lead one to suppose. The best view is
to be obtained from the church of Nuestra Señora de la Valle, above the
Puente de San Martin. The exterior, with its flying buttresses, finials,
and rose-windows, reflects the Gothic spirit of the interior. The west
façade is flanked by two towers, that above the Chapel of the Canons
alone being complete. It is 295 feet high, and was begun by order of
Archbishop Tenorio, in 1380, by Rodrigo Alfons, and completed under
Archbishop Contreras in 1440 by Alvar Gomez. On the summit is a small
spire, surmounted by a cross, a vane, and an arrow. Here are hung the
bells, among them the famous Campana Gorda, weighing nearly two tons,
and whose note reaches to Madrid. The tower also contains a peal called
the Matraca, worked continuously by mechanism from Maundy Thursday till
Easter Saturday. The view from the summit is far-reaching and inspiring.
Among the finest features of this noble church are its eight principal
entrances. In the western façade are three portals--the Puerto del
Perdon in the centre, flanked by the Puertas de los Escribános and de
la Torre. All date from the first half of the fifteenth century and are
in the Gothic style. The Puerta del Perdon forms a noble arch, richly
ornamented, and divided into two smaller arches by a column surmounted
by the figure of Christ, above which are the Twelve Apostles. Above
these again is a relief in the Renaissance style representing the gift
of the Chasuble to San Ildefonso. The smaller doors are in single
arches, and are sculptured with statues of angels and patriarchs. The
Puerta de los Escribános is so called because through it the notaries
enter the church to take their oaths. It is also called the Puerta del
Juicio. Above it is a long inscription commemorating the taking of
Granada and the expulsion of the Jews. Above the portals the façade is
adorned with a colossal sculpture of the Last Supper, the Saviour and
the Apostles being seated each in a niche, and the table reaching from
buttress to buttress. The façade is pierced with a beautiful rose-window
thirty feet across with a glazed arcade beneath.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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