Toledo, the Story of an Old Spanish CapitalLynch, Hannah
History
Toledo, the Story of an Old Spanish Capital
Lynch, Hannah
Toledo (Spain) -- Description and travel; Toledo (Spain) -- History
natural tendency. Even in the _Expolio_, his first known great picture,
painted when he was a young man, his predilection for excessive height
is visible in the tall figure of Christ, and as the years go on this
predilection accentuates itself, till his figures cease to be natural.
The same tendency to distort the human limbs reveals itself in his
magnificent picture in the little church of Santo Tomé, in the upper
portion of which one notes extraordinary figures of angels out of
drawing, with twisted limbs over clouds.
Philip, in his dissatisfaction with his bargain was, however, as befits
a prince, more honourable than the chapter of Toledo. He paid El Greco
the price of his work, and only with difficulty did the unhappy artist
obtain, for his reputation's sake, a grudging admission of the picture
into the _Sala de Capitular_, while Philip ordered for the chapel, in
its stead, another picture of Romulo Cincinnato.
But these rebuffs were few in a truly brilliant career. The wonder is
how he found time, as well as physical strength, for all the commissions
he received. He built the extremely elegant façade of the Ayuntamiento,
which makes an odd and formal note in its Gothic and semi-Moorish
environment, in Greco-Roman style, but has a fine and dignified effect
against an appropriate depth of azure to carry out the classical
intention of a son of Greece. The side towers give lightness to the
solidity of the immense base, and if the columns and arches do not
succeed in producing a general impression of grace--a quality absent in
nearly all El Greco's work--there is no sin anywhere against harmony.
The interior is worth a visit if it were only for the pleasure of
reading on stone Manrique's sententious and noble lines, with their
indubitable ring of the plumed, dramatic ages and the hidalgo's studious
search for the fitting word, the fitting gesture, that shall send him
down to posterity in the worthiest form:
"Nobles, discretos varones,
Que gobernais à Toledo,
En aquestas escalones
Desechad las aficiones,
Codicio, temor, y miedo.
Por los comunes provechos
Dejad los particulares;
Pues vos fizo Dios pilares
De tan riquisimos techos,
Estad firmes y derechos."
When the Toledans wore their famed steel, and damascene armour was the
fashion and not a curiosity, the "discreet and noble males" Manrique so
magnificently addresses, may have lived up to the high civic ideal of
these verses, but it is much to be doubted if the modern Toledans, who
no longer seek distraction in the excitement of excellent steel, and
fashion paper-knives for books they never read, of damascene instead of
exquisite armour, maintain this level of austere civic virtue.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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