Toledo, the Story of an Old Spanish CapitalLynch, Hannah
History
Toledo, the Story of an Old Spanish Capital
Lynch, Hannah
Toledo (Spain) -- Description and travel; Toledo (Spain) -- History
From immemorial time the principal entrance has been covered with
plaster, which only permits us to see the great Gothic window in the
centre. The workmanship of the interior of the church leads us to infer
that this entrance was more in keeping with the whole than the present
façade of Covarrubias, which is decadent Gothic, constructed many years
later, and only finished in the reign of Philip III. The length of this
single nave is 200 feet, its width in the transept is over 70, and in
the body of the church 43. There are seven chapels, four on one side and
three on the other, all insignificant. The tomb of Don Pedro de Ayala,
bishop of the Canaries, is a fine specimen of renaissance sculpture. The
cupola rests on four admirably wrought pillars, its form is octagon,
with an ogival dome and a window in each face. Nothing could be richer
or more effective than the elaborately decorated sides of the transept.
Such a splendid prodigality of Gothic sculpture was surely never
lavished on so small a space. To give anything like a detailed account
of it would require an art and a knowledge nothing less stupendous than
the imagination that devised such work. The retablo, painted by Francis
of Antwerp in the sixteenth century, that Ponz praised so
enthusiastically, disappeared in the time of the fatal French
occupation, when the church was the stables of Napoleon's soldiers, and
along with it the life-sized portraits of the founders, Fernando and
Isabel. Hardly any of the old stainglass remains, to which fact is due
the glaring effect of crude light upon the white stone. But this light
permits you to examine at ease the superlative magnificence of the
transept sides and the sculptured pillars. Everywhere the initials F and
I, with the yoke and the arrows of both sovereigns. Letters and
inscriptions are exquisitely finished, and nothing could be more
graceful than the general effect of arches and capitals. The high broad
nave forms a Latin cross, composed of apse, transept and the body of the
church, all the most prodigious and exuberant specimen of florid
renaissance. The choir is situated over a low, broad, painted vault. The
pillars that support the four domes of the naves are richly sculptured
and adorned with statues, and a fine frieze runs above the chapels on
either side, with a window above each arch divided by graceful Gothic
pillars. The inscriptions are many, and surprisingly clear and beautiful
in finish. Here is one of the most elaborate in Gothic letters:
[Illustration: DETAIL OF ORNAMENT, INTERIOR OF S. JUAN DE LOS REYES]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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