Toledo, the Story of an Old Spanish CapitalLynch, Hannah
History
Toledo, the Story of an Old Spanish Capital
Lynch, Hannah
Toledo (Spain) -- Description and travel; Toledo (Spain) -- History
demonstrate that the house was built after the Christian Conquest by
Moorish builders, but one may ask oneself, was the rest of the mansion
in keeping with this glorious chamber? Who designed it, wrought it? What
sort of life was lived therein? What the fashion of the garments that
swept it, the dreams dreamed within its fabulous walls? Why should this
single jewel remain in a sordid setting, and nothing to tell us how the
rest came to vanish, why this alone was preserved? All we know is that
Cardinal Siliceo turned the house into a college for young ladies in the
sixteenth century, and placed his own arms above the exquisite ajimez
window between the chamber and the boudoir, and the chamber served the
Carmelites as a chapel for many years.
The _Taller del Moro_ is probably earlier by four centuries than the
_Casa de Mesa_. Here we have the influence of the Cordovese-Arabian
architecture, of an art less delicate and fairy-like than the
Granadine-Arabian. There is every reason to believe that this palace was
built after the Gothic downfall for a Saracen magnate. The street was
called the Street of the Moor to prove that an illustrious Moor dwelt
there, and its resemblance to the Alcázar of Sevilla indicates that the
owner was in every probability a ruler of some kind, a governor or
viceroy. It may be on this slight ground that it has been hinted it was
here all the nobles of Toledo were invited to a banquet to meet the
Khalif's son, and as each one entered the dusky garden, his head, with a
single stroke, was sent rolling into the ditch near the gate. There is
nothing now about it to bear out this shuddering suggestion. The long
Moorish chamber is turned into a vulgar workshop. The wooden door from
the street opens into a squalid yard, with carts and wheelbarrows about,
and placid Christians, for a couple of pence, receive you without any
hint of knife or blood, or lugubrious ditch. Not even the ghost of a
turbaned Moor to disturb your musing as you stand in the degraded
workshop, where the light is dim, and vex your soul with mutterings
against the damp and smoke. The chamber is a hundred feet long by
twenty-four. It is of a singularly rich and splendid design, with
Moorish inscriptions running along the walls, with delicate friezes, and
all the Oriental luxury of red and gold and blue. The artesonado ceiling
is superb, and it requires no very violent effort of imagination to
evoke a vague picture of this banqueting hall in the days of Moorish
revelry, when passion and policy wrapped themselves in the magic charm
of colour, and mere civilisation was an inexhaustible enchantment, a
pure and indolent delight.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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