Toledo, the Story of an Old Spanish CapitalLynch, Hannah
History
Toledo, the Story of an Old Spanish Capital
Lynch, Hannah
Toledo (Spain) -- Description and travel; Toledo (Spain) -- History
tempted to commit a crime, he ordered his instant execution, in the
interests of humanity. Sure, indeed was it worth while to be a King in
those delightful days, a life never monotonous for the lack of
surprises, never empty of vicissitudes and every odd and stupendous
stroke of fortune.
A word must be said about the legendary _Baño de la Cava_. The
probability is that this celebrated and picturesque ruin was portion of
a turreted bridge that existed before the construction of San Martin,
and was swept away in one of the inundations that wrought at periods so
much damage to the town. The ruin is undoubtedly Moorish, and Moorish
letters may be traced on one of the broken columns, which would prove it
posterior to the Berber invasion under Tarik. The height of the old
bridge is sufficiently indicated to show us that a wild rush of water
from the upper rocky defile as it thunders down the gorge would quickly
carry off the stoutest construction so lowly placed, hence the exceeding
height of the central arch of Tenorio's bridge, through which the Tagus
in its most turbulent hour can gush at will. The ruin is a delightful
one, and nothing could be more romantic than its situation. Graceless
facts that so ruthlessly demolish poetic legends!
The walls and ramparts are dismantled now, but there are considerable
traces of the Visigothic walls of 711, while the twelfth century walls
of Alfonso, the conqueror, are naturally more distinct. Quite recent is
the easy sloping road that winds up from the bridge of Alcántara to the
Zocodover. If one regrets the old double walls that used to guard the
city on this side, it must be admitted that there are agreeable
compensations. The town is more open to the breezes of the Vega; the new
road itself is a comfortable invention as a substitute for the
battlemented and rocky altitude it was once to climb, and the pretty
_Miradero_ makes a graceful modern note in a mediæval picture. But
giving your back to San Servando, and mounting the road of _Nuestra
Señora de la Valle_, you may trace on the other side the broken ramparts
in their extreme age and admirable preservation. And leaving the town by
the _Puerta de Visagra_, wander round by the Vega, and here beyond the
_Puerta Lodada_, you will admire the martial aspect of what remains of
Wamba's jagged walls within and the outer walls of Alfonso that run from
the Puerta Nueva to the Lunatic Asylum.
_Appendix_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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