Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
History
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.
Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
_Hawkestone Park, Jan. 2nd, 1827._
BELOVED FRIEND,
Though I felt perfectly 'blasé' of parks yesterday, and thought I could
never take any interest in them again, I am quite of another mind
to-day, and must in some respects give Hawkestone the preference over
all I have seen. It is not art, nor magnificence, nor aristocratical
splendour, but nature alone, to which it is indebted for this
pre-eminence, and in such a degree that were I gifted with the power of
adding to its beauty, I should ask, What can I add?
Turn your imagination to a spot of ground so commandingly placed, that
from its highest point you can let your eye wander over fifteen
counties. Three sides of this wide panorama rise and fall in constant
change of hill and dale, like the waves of an agitated sea, and are
bounded at the horizon by the strangely-formed jagged outline of the
Welsh mountains, which at either end descend to a fertile plain shaded
by thousands of lofty trees, and in the obscure distance where it blends
with the sky is edged with a white misty line--the ocean.
The Welsh mountains are partly covered with snow, and all the cultivated
country between so thickly intersected with hedge-rows and trees, that
at a distance it has rather the appearance of a thinly planted wood,
here and there broken by water or by numberless fields and meadows. You
stand directly in the centre of this scene, on the summit of a group of
hills, looking down over the tops of groves of oaks and beeches
alternating with the most luxuriant slopes of meadow-land, upon a wall
of rock five or six hundred feet high, which forms numerous steep
precipices and pretty valleys. In one of the gloomiest spots of this
wilderness arise the venerable ruins of 'the Red Castle,' a magnificent
memorial of the time of William the Conqueror.
Now imagine this whole romantic group of hills, which rises isolated
from the very plain, to be surrounded almost in a perfect circle by the
silver waves of the river Hawke. This naturally bounded spot is
Hawkestone Park, a spot whose beauties are so appreciated even in the
neighbourhood, that the brides and bridegrooms of Liverpool and
Shrewsbury come here to pass their honeymoon. The park seems indeed
rather the property of the public than of its possessor, who never
resides here, and whose ruinous and mean-looking house lies hidden in a
corner of the park, like a 'hors d'oeuvre.' There is, however, a
pretty inn, in which visitors find all that is needful to their comfort.
Here we passed the night, and after a good breakfast 'á la fourchette,'
set out on our long excursion on foot; for the roads are so bad that we
could not drive. Our scrambling walk, almost dangerous in winter, lasted
four hours.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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