Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
History
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.
Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
We crossed a grassy plain, shaded by oaks and covered with grazing
cattle, to the rocks I have mentioned, in which the pale green veins
show the existence of copper. They rise out of a lofty hanging wood of
old beeches, and are crowned at their summits with black firs, the whole
effect of which is most striking. In this natural wall is a grotto,
which, after climbing wearily along a zig-zag path in the wood, you
reach through a dark covered way more than a hundred feet long, hewn in
the rock. The grotto consists of numerous caverns incrusted with all
sorts of minerals. There are small openings in which are set pieces of
coloured glass cut like brilliants; in the dark they gleam like the
precious stones of Aladdin's cave. An old woman was our guide, and
excited our wonder by her unwearied walking, and the dexterity with
which she climbed up and down the rocks in slippers. The irregular steps
of stone were as smooth as glass, and so difficult sometimes to pass
over, that our good R----, who had iron heels to his boots, complained
bitterly of the efforts he had to make to keep himself up. We reached a
summer-house, built of trunks and branches of trees and covered with
moss, which commanded a picturesque view of a fantastic hill called the
Temple of Patience. Our way then led us to the so-called Swiss Bridge,
which is boldly thrown from one rock to another. As the railing is
partly broken down and the passage rather a dizzy one, my good Julia, if
it were possible for her to have come thus far, would have found an end
to her expedition. How fortunate it is to have such an unwearied guide
through the regions of imagination--one who bears you in an instant
across the giddy bridge, and now places you before a black tower-like
rock projecting out of the glittering beeches, overgrown with thorns and
festooned with garlands of ivy! This was long the abode of a fox, who
lived secure from pursuit in his castle of Malapartus; it is still
called Reynard's House. We went on, up hill and down dale, and at
length, rather tired, reached the terrace, an open place with beautiful
peeps at the country cut in the wood. Not far from thence, behind very
high trees, stands a column a hundred-and-twenty feet high, dedicated to
the founder of the family,--a London merchant and Lord Mayor of London
in the time of Henry the Third,--whose statue crowns the pillar. A
convenient winding staircase in the inside leads to its summit, whence
you overlook the panorama of fifteen counties already mentioned. You
pass through still wider chasms between the rocks to a lovely cottage,
standing in complete seclusion at the end of a green valley, where
formerly various beasts and birds were kept, which are now preserved
stuffed in a room of the cottage. A young woman showed them to us, with
the strange announcement,--'All these animals that you see _used to
live_ formerly.' I spare you the green-house built of masses of rock and
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