Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
History
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.
Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
branches of trees, and the Gothic tower--a sort of summer-house, and
lead you a long, long way through wood, then over green hills and
through a narrow defile to the magnificent ruin, the sublimely situated
Red Castle. The decayed walls and the hewn rocky sides are of great
extent. You can reach the interior only through a winding passage
blasted in the rock, so utterly dark that I found myself obliged to use
my guide's petticoat as an Ariadne's clue, for I literally could not see
my hand before my eyes. Out of this tunnel you emerge into a picturesque
alley of rock, with smooth high walls overarched with mountain-ashes. On
the side you perceive a cavern, the mouth of which is still closed with
a rusty iron gate. Climbing rude steps in the rock, you reach the upper
part of the ruin--a high roofless tower, in whose walls, fifteen feet
thick, many trees centuries old have struck their roots, and in the
interior of which is a well, which appears to sink down to the entrails
of the earth. The massy and unshaken barrier around it, the lofty tower
through which the sky appears above, and the bottomless depth beneath,
where reigns eternal night, produce an effect I never remember to have
experienced. You see Hope and Despair allegorically united in one
picture before you. The tower, and the rock on which it stands, look
down from a giddy height, in a perfectly perpendicular line, upon the
valley, in which the huge trees appear like copse-wood.
By a somewhat considerable leap of the imagination you reach a New
Zealander's hut on the banks of a little lake, built many years ago from
a drawing of Captain Cook's, and furnished with arrows, spears,
tomahawks, skulls of eaten enemies, and such-like pretty trifles, the
innocent luxuries of these children of nature.
Here we closed our walk, leaving unseen several devices which deform the
place, and which, as well as (alas!) the paths, are somewhat in decay.
But these defects are slight, in a whole so full of sublime and
wondrously-varied natural beauty.
_Newport, Jan. 3rd._
It is winter in good earnest;--the earth covered with ice and six inches
of snow, and the cold in the rooms, so insufficiently warmed by open
fires, almost insufferable. As I passed the greater part of the day in
the carriage, I have little to tell.
_Birmingham, Jan. 4th._
To-day too we saw nothing remarkable on our road but a newly laid out
park through which we drove, with a small but elegant garden, with very
pretty flower-stands of various sorts, and baskets, all of fine wire,
and clothed with creepers. R---- was obliged to draw them with stiff
fingers.
The inn at which we ate our luncheon bore the date 1603 carved in stone,
and is the prettiest specimen of a cottage in an antique style, with
brickwork in various patterns, I have met with. Towards evening we
reached Birmingham, where I am reposing comfortably after the excessive
cold.
_January 6th._
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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