'Vie de Château.' Cathedral at St. Asaph. Tabernacle. True faith. Denbigh Castle. Meeting of Harpers. Romantic Valley. Pretty Fanny. Her dairy and aviary. Paradise of fowls. Ride through romantic country. Short stay at Craig y Don. Newspaper article. Irish dinner. Happy condition of the middle classes. Opinions on England. The Isle of Anglesea. Paris mines. Copper smelting. New inventions. Holyhead. Light-house. Terrific rocks. Sea-birds. Hanging bridge. Stormy passage to Ireland. First Impression of the country. Dublin. Exhibition of fruits and flowers. Walk in the city. Sight-seeing. Palace of the Lord Lieutenant, and modern Gothic chapel. University. My Cicerone. Organ of the Armada. Archimedes' burning glass. Portraits of Swift and Burke. Battle of Navarino. Phoenix Park. Characteristics of the people. Lady B----. The meaning of "character" in England. The Liffy. W---- Park. Charming entrance. "The Three Rocks." Beautiful view. Irish peasant women. Wooden Capuchin. The Dandy. Comfortable arrangements for the English aristocracy. Country visit. First interview with Lady M----. Unfortunate end of a ride. Further particulars concerning the Muse of Ireland......317 LETTER XXIX. Ride on horseback into the county Wicklow. Bray. Student's equipment. English piety. Kilruddery. Glen of the Downs. Summer-house. Vale of Durwan. The giant. The Devil's Glen. Küleborn. Rural repast in Rosanna. The tourists. Avondale, an Eden by moonlight. Avoca Inn. The meeting of the Waters. Castle Howard. Beautiful portrait of Mary Stuart. Bally Arthur. The ha-ha. My horse at blind-man's buff. Shelton Abbey. The negro porter. Loss of my pocket-book. What is a gentleman? Valley of Glenmalure. Lead mines. Military road. The sun behind black masses of clouds. The seven churches. Mysterious tower without an entrance. The black lake of St. Kevin. The giant Fian M'Cumhal. The enamoured Princess. Her tragical end, and the saint's excessive rigour. Irish toilet. Walter Scott and Moore in the mouth of a peasant. Morass and will-o'-the-wisp. A night upon straw. Hedge of Mist. First peep of sun over the lake and valley of Luggelaw. Romantic solitude. The statue of rock. P---- Park. Intolerance, cant, and abuse of the Sunday. Sugar-loaf. Rich country. Repose by the brook. Lord Byron......331 LETTER XXX. Donnybrook fair. The lovers. Powerscourt. The Dargle and The Lover's Leap. The waterfall. Galopade, with the guide behind me. Inn at Bray. Sketch of English manners. Grand Duke of S---- W.----. Advantages of a humble mode of travelling. Activity of beggars. Kingston. Construction of the harbour. Machinery. The Spectre ship. Tasteless and appropriate monument in honour of George the Fourth. Fine road to Dublin. Catholic association. English horse-riders and admirable clowns. The dance of Polypi......340 LETTER XXXI.