In the evening, after wandering to four or five places in search of something interesting, I at last fixed myself at Lady ----'s where I was riveted by the conversation of a Captain ----, a half German who is just returned from the East, and gave a very interesting account of his travels. Among other things he told me the following strange anecdotes of Lady Hester Stanhope, a niece of Pitt's, who left England many years ago, turned Arab, and has established herself in Syria. She is now honoured by the Arabs as a prophet, lives with all the state of a native princess, and seldom allows Europeans to see her. After a great deal of trouble Captain ---- gained access to her. The first thing she required was his promise that he would not write anything about her. This vow being made, (luckily I am bound by none such,) she was cheerful and conversable, and talked with equal ease and cleverness. She made it no secret that she had renounced the Christian faith, and at the same time that she still looked for the appearing of the true Son of God, before whom she was appointed to prepare the way. Hereupon she showed the Captain a noble Arab mare, which had a curious bony excrescence on the back exactly in the form of a saddle. "This horse," said she,--with a look of which Captain ---- declared he was still in doubt whether to ascribe to madness or to a desire to hoax him,--"This horse God has saddled for his own Son, and wo to the man who shall dare to mount it! Under my protection it awaits its true master." She afterwards assured him, 'en passant,' that Adam was still living, and that she knew perfectly the place of his concealment, but would not reveal it. The lady of the house listened to his narration, and assured him that Lady Hester had been only 'quizzing' him; for that she had known her well, and that never had woman a clearer, more determined, and at the same time more astute mind. For a person of such a character, she has made a good exchange in renouncing Western for Eastern life. She rules; she is free as bird in air; while in the centre of civilization she would never have been able to subtract herself from the slavery which must ever remain, more or less, the dark side of civilized life. _April 4th._ Sir Alexander Johnston, a great Orientalist, but in another sense of the word, invited me to dinner, and seasoned the repast by his intelligent and learned conversation. He has effected many important things in his department; but we, dear Julia, are both of us too ignorant on the subject for me to attempt to give you an account of them. One thing however will interest you. He told me of a cachemir shawl of Tippo Saib's, embroidered in gold, and silks of all colours, ten ells long and worth a thousand pounds--a thing well calculated to set a female imagination on fire. _April 6th._