Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
History
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.
Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
As the Lord Mayor has invited me to his great dinner, I rode into the
city this morning to call on him: this is rather a perilous enterprise,
with a fidgetty horse. Once I got so entangled in the crowd, that I was
absolutely forced to turn my horse on the 'trottoir.' This the people
regarded as an invasion of their rights; and not observing that
necessity drove me thither, began to abuse me, and some to strike my
horse: a huge gigantic carter held up his fist and challenged me to box
with him: as however I felt no inclination to make this practical
application of the lessons I have taken in the 'noble art of
self-defence,' I pressed forward to a small gap which happily offered
itself, and made my escape.
I dined with Count Munster, a noble representative of Germany, who has
endeavoured as far as possible to preserve German simplicity in his
household. Everybody knows his distinguished qualities as a statesman:
he is not less remarkable for his agreeable manners and talents in
social and domestic life.
Since his residence in England, he has designed and painted the
decorations for his castle in the Harz, with great taste and skill; and
his wife's paintings on glass are very beautiful: in a few years all the
windows of the castle chapel will be adorned with her own works. The
German housewife however is no mere modern bel-esprit, or artist, but,
like one of the knightly dames who are the subjects of her pencil, she
takes care to have excellent beer brewed in her own house:--she gave me
some, which I drank with all the gratitude of a guest in the hall of
Valhalla.
In the evening a great fête at Lord Hertford's, with concert, ball,
French-play, &c., assembled the fashionable and half-fashionable
world[52] in a magnificent and tastefully furnished house. The
singularity in it is, that all the rooms are decorated in the same
manner,--flesh-coloured stucco and gold, with black bronze, very large
looking-glasses, and curtains of crimson and white silk. This uniformity
produces a very 'grandiose' effect. One room alone (of extraordinary
size for London) is white and gold, carpeted with scarlet cloth, and
with furniture and curtains of the same colour.
The company, 'c'est a dire la foule,' was not more vivacious than usual,
and the whole affair 'magnifiquement ennuyex.'
Another house worth seeing is that of the great banker ----, especially
on account of the fine collection of pictures. Here is also that triumph
of modern sculpture, Thorwaldson's Jason, and some valuable antiques. On
a sort of terrace on part of the house are hanging-gardens; and though
the shrubs have only three feet of earth, they grow very luxuriantly.
The lady of the gardens is however no Semiramis; 'il s'en faut,'
whatever she may think * * *
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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