Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince. — John Shaqi
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
History
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.
Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
In the middle of the second night we anchored just below London Bridge,
the most unfortunate circumstance that can happen to a man. In
consequence of the severity of the Custom-house, he is not permitted to
take his things on shore before they are inspected; and the office is
not opened till ten in the morning. As I did not choose to leave my
German servants alone with my carriage and effects, I was compelled to
pass the night, almost dressed as I was, in a miserable sailors' tavern
close to the river. In the morning, however, when I was present at the
examination, I found that the golden key, which rarely fails, had not
lost its efficacy here, and saved me from long and tedious delays. Even
a few dozen French gloves, which lay in all innocence open upon my
linen, seemed to be rendered invisible;--nobody took any notice of them.
I hastened as quickly as possible out of the dirty city, swarming like
an ant-hill, but had half a stage to travel with post-horses before I
reached the 'West end of the town,' where I put up at my old quarters,
the Clarendon Hotel. My former host, a Swiss, had exchanged England for
a yet unknown country. His son, however, occupied his place, and
received me with all that respectful attention which distinguishes
English innkeepers, and indeed all here who live by the money of others.
He very soon rendered me a real service; for I had hardly rested an hour
before I discovered that, in the confusion of the night, I had left a
purse with eighty sovereigns in a drawer in my bed-room. Monsieur
Jaquier, 'qui connoissait le terrain,' shrugged his shoulders, but
instantly sent off a confidential person to the spot, to recover the
lost purse if possible. The disorder which reigned in the miserable inn,
stood me in good stead. Our messenger found the room uncleared; and to
the, perhaps disagreeable, surprise of the people, the purse where I
left it.
London is now so utterly dead as to elegance and fashion, that one
hardly meets an equipage; and nothing remains of the 'beau monde' but a
few ambassadors. The huge city is, at the same time, full of fog and
dirt, and the macadamized streets are like well-worn roads; the old
pavement has been torn up, and replaced by small pieces of granite, the
interstices between which are filled with gravel; this renders the
riding more easy, and diminishes the noise; but, on the other hand,
changes the town into a sort of quagmire. Were it not for the admirable
'trottoirs,' people must go on stilts, as they do in the Landes near
Bourdeaux. Englishwomen of the lower classes do indeed wear an iron
machine of the kind on their large feet.
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