Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince. — John Shaqi
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
History
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.
Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
In other cities the Exchange has merely a mercantile air--here it has a
completely historical one. The imposing statues of English sovereigns
around, the most remarkable among whom are Henry the Eighth and
Elizabeth, combined with the antique and stately architecture, excite a
poetical feeling, to which the thought of the boundless commerce of
which London is the centre gives a still deeper significancy. The men,
however, who animate the picture soon draw one back into the region of
common-place, for selfishness and avarice gleam but too clearly from
every eye. In this point of view, the place I am describing, and indeed
the whole city, have a repulsive sinister aspect, which almost reminds
one of the restless and comfortless throng of the spirits of the damned.
The great court of the Exchange is surrounded by covered arcades, on
which inscriptions point out to the merchants of every nation their
several places of assembling. In the centre stands a statue of Charles
the Second, who built this edifice. Its port and bearing precisely
express the man whom history describes; not handsome, but somewhat
graceful, and with an inveterate levity of features, composed, as if in
mockery, to seriousness: a levity which nothing could correct, because
it sprang from mediocrity, and which made this king as agreeable and
careless a 'roué' as he was a worthless ruler. In niches above stand the
busts of other English sovereigns. I have already mentioned Henry the
Eighth and Elizabeth. They would be striking, independently of all
associations;--- Henry, fat and contented, and with an expression of
wanton cruelty: Elizabeth, with an air of masculine greatness, and yet
of feminine spite. The busts are doubtless copied from the best
originals by Holbein. On this story is the celebrated Lloyd's Coffee
House, the dirtiest place of the kind in London, which exhibits few
traces of the millions daily exchanged in it.
Close by is the vast and beautiful building, the Bank of England,
containing a number of rooms of various dimensions, generally lighted
from above, and destined to the various offices. Hundreds of clerks are
here at work, and mechanically conduct the gigantic business, at which
the 'nil admirari' becomes a difficult matter to a poor German;
especially when he is admitted into the Bullion Office where the ingots
are kept, and gazes astounded on the heaps of gold and silver which
appear to him to realize the wonders of the Arabian Nights.
From hence I proceeded to the Town-House (Guildhall), where the Lord
Mayor was just in the act of administering the law. The present Lord
Mayor is a bookseller, but cut a very good figure in his blue gown and
gold chain, and assumed a truly monarchical dignity. I do not think that
he acquitted himself at all worse than a regular officer of
justice;--ever since Sancho Panza's time, it is admitted that a sound
understanding often discerns the right more truly than learned subtlety.
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