Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
History
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.
Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
My trouble has been richly rewarded. The first, Audley-End, belonging to
Lord Braybrooke, claims a place among the finest in the country. The
road lies through the middle of it, with a deep ha-ha on each side,
which secures the park and yet leaves a full view into it. You see, at
first, an extensive green landscape, in the centre of which is a broad,
river-like, and beautifully formed piece of water, which unfortunately,
however, has too little motion to prevent its being covered with
duckweed. Near to the opposite shore stands the splendid Gothic castle,
which was originally built by the Duke of Suffolk, and was then three
times as large as it is now. The multitude of its towers, projecting
angles, and lofty many-formed windows, still give it a very imposing and
picturesque appearance.
Although Lady Braybrooke was at home, I obtained the uncommon permission
to view it. I entered a wide and very simple hall, ornamented only with
some gigantic stag's horns of great antiquity, and furnished with a few
massive benches and chairs, on which the arms of the family were
painted; some very old paintings; a Gothic lamp; a large table,
consisting of two pieces of serpentine, of which only the upper side was
polished, the rest quite rough; and a dozen leather fire-buckets, also
painted with the family arms. The ceiling was of wood, with
deeply-carved compartments and old faded paintings. One saw at the first
glance that it was no house of yesterday one had entered. A high door
of heavy carved oak led from hence into the baron's hall, a large room
whose enormous windows reached from the ceiling to the floor, and
afforded a free view of the landscape. Several family pictures, as large
as life, partly painted by Vandyck, hung on the opposite wall; and
between them rose the huge marble chimney-piece, with the
richly-coloured arms of the Suffolks executed upon it in stucco. The
third side of the room,--that on which we entered,--was entirely covered
with very fine and highly relieved carvings, figures half the size of
life, like those one sees in the choirs of Gothic churches. Opposite
were large folding doors which opened into the eating-hall, and on each
side an open staircase leading to the first story. The dining-room
contains a portrait of Suffolk, and one of Queen Elizabeth. Her red
hair, 'fade' complexion and false look, and her over-done finery, gave
no advantageous idea of the vain and gallant 'Maiden Queen.'
On the first floor is a long narrow gallery full of pretty knick-knacks
and antique curiosities. In the centre is a large chart of the winds,
connected with the weather-cock on the tower, and destined to show the
sportsman every morning which way the wind sets.[16] This serves as
drawing-room, for most English country-houses and mansions are
judiciously made to contain only one principal entertaining room; which
is much more convenient for the reception of a large company.
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