Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
Among the other things that Spain had in common with "European Europe"
may be mentioned the royal Zoos: one at Madrid, where a crocodile was
to be seen, also the first rhinoceros that had been brought to Europe;
the other at Valladolid, containing four lions, an eagle, four seals,
and canary-birds. In water-works Aranjuez could hold its own against
Italy, with its brazen statue of Priapus, casting forth water from
every extremity, a cave with two dragons and many birds, the birds
being made to sing by the movements of the water; with satyrs and
savages, and artificial cypresses and white roses which soaked the
visitor who touched them. Neither were the horribles kept out of sight:
at Seville some one speaks of seeing a thief shot to death with arrows,
and two other criminals beheaded with swords, the bodies being laid up
against a church-wall to attract alms to pay for their burial.
The coupling of Ireland with Spain does not result from the mere
chance of westernmost position, nor even from the political needs
that they shared, or from the supposed kinship of the peoples. While
other countries aroused curiosity and then gratified it, these two
occasioned, successively, illusion, disillusion, mystification.
Which often led to abuse, but not so often, as regards Ireland, by
Englishmen, as is represented by experienced controversialists who well
know the effect of sixteenth-century phrases torn from their context
and set up on a background of journalese, where the flavour of the
original spelling fixes their seeming harshness in the memory of those
controversialists cater for.
There can be no more effective counterblast to this than a study of the
books of the time recording journeys from everywhere to everywhere, for
from these it will be evident that what the Englishmen say of Ireland
and the Irish is more favourable than what contemporary foreigners
usually say of the countries and nations that they visit; and also
that where the English are unfavourable they are borne out by other
foreigners. All adverse comment may be included under the charge of
barbarism. Now Captain Cuellar, as unprejudiced a witness as could be
required, being a Spaniard wrecked there from the Armada and a man who
took everything as it came, invariably speaks of each Irishman as "el
selvaje," which cannot be translated as anything but "the savage."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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