Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
On Maundy Thursday came the ceremony of washing the pilgrims' feet by
the warden, and great was his disgust if he found that he had washed
and kissed the feet of a Protestant. Some spent the next three nights
in the church of the Holy Sepulchre, some only Easter Eve; a survival
of the pre-Christian idea of the healing influence of passing a night
in a temple.[91] Those who could not afford, or borrow, the heavy
entrance-fee, never entered but stood outside and wept, or looked
through the round hole in the door through which food was passed.
Inside, it made all the difference whether or no the Oriental Palm
Sunday or Easter Day fell on the Frank Easter. If so, the Frank would
find the number in the church of the Holy Sepulchre anything between
one and two thousand, many belonging to nations he had never heard
of, all frantic with excitement, dancing, leaping, and lamenting by
torchlight, in garments that he had never dreamt of, to the sound of
kettle-drums and horns and other instruments as strange to him as their
languages and manner of singing; all combining, with their flags and
banners, in a general cumulative effect of inexpressible weirdness,
without a single touch to bring it into relation with ordinary life,
except the Turks bringing to reason with sticks those who were really
too outrageous even for the occasion. And so the pilgrims spent the
three nights, on the floor, in as utter disregard of decency and
sanitation, and sometimes of morality, as of silence.
The descent of the Holy Fire was no more than an interesting sight to
the European tourist; Roman Catholic and Protestant alike expressed
disbelief in its actuality as openly as the Turk.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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