Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
On Easter Monday the monks journeyed to Emmaus, passing the house of
Simeon and the spot where David slew Goliath, returning by another
road past the valley where Joshua commanded the staying still of the
sun, and the house of Samuel. It was on the Tuesday preceding the
Oriental Easter that the great excursion of the year took place, to
Jordan; the only one in the year because the danger from the Arabs was
considered prohibitive unless an escort of Turkish soldiers accompanied
the pilgrims, so strong that only the Easter concourse could pay
them. It was more than a day's journey, so Tuesday night was spent in
the open, starting again however before dawn at the pace set by the
escort's horses; of the poorer pilgrims who could not afford a mount,
many died either from exhaustion or from fear. So says Della Valle,
and it is confirmed by Lithgow; the latter, who walked, sometimes
was up to his middle in sand, and "true it is, in all my travels, I
was never so sore fatigued, nor more fearfully endangered than that
night." At dawn they arrived where Christ had been baptised, to see the
medley of nationalities, all distinct from each other in some striking
detail or other, once more in the highest state of excitement; some
drinking, some being baptised by friends, some dipping their clothes,
some renouncing clothes altogether, scores, perhaps hundreds, of men
and women stark naked, there in the chilly spring morning, douching
themselves till their teeth chattered and their bodies turned blue,
while others who came to pray remained to laugh.
On the way back some diverged to visit Mt. Quarantana, the scene of
the forty days' fast; very few ascended it. The way up was a narrow
path along precipices; broken by forty-five steps, each from five to
ten feet high, where there was little foothold and slipping meant
death. This ended at the little cave where Christ was tempted by the
Devil; the way thence to the summit, from which Christ had surveyed the
kingdoms of the world, was not attempted by any one: Lithgow says he
reached the top but proves that he did not; and Della Valle says that
the only means of reaching it was that used by Christ, being carried up
by the Devil.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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