Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
As a relief from the general statements, a particular instance may be
quoted to exemplify a night by the way in Poland. The sleeping-room
struck the writer as something between a stable and a subterranean
furnace. Six soldiers lay on the ground as if dead; the peasant-tenant,
his wife, children, and servants, lay on benches round the walls, with
coverings of straw and feathers; in one corner slept a Calvinist,
a baron's secretary; in another, on the peasant's straw pallet, an
ambassador's chaplain, a Roman Catholic; and between the two, to save
each, it seemed, from the heels of the other, was lying a huge Tartar,
a captain in the Polish army, who had made up a bed of hay for himself.
About the room were dogs, geese, pigs, fowls; while the corner by the
oven was conceded to a woman who had just given birth to a child. The
baby cried, the mother moaned, the tired servants and soldiers snored;
and early in the morning the writer rose from the shelf he was sharing
with some leggings, spurs, and muskets, and escaped.[94]
Speaking generally, there were no beds to be found in the North.
In Muscovy everything had to be carried along; without a hatchet,
tinder-box, and kettle there was no hot food for the wayfarer till he
reached a monastery or a town, much less shelter; unless by chance
he came across somebody's one-story cabin which would have no outlet
for the smoke except the door, and accommodation below the level of
the average stable, one room shared between the family, visitors, and
live-stock. When Sir Jerome Horsey was at Arensberg, in the island of
Oesel, near the gulf of Riga, in 1580, snakes crept about bed and table
and the hens came and pecked at them in the flour and the milk.
Crossing over to Sweden the absence of inns was equally noticeable,
but no disadvantage, for one of the conditions on which the parson
held his living was that of showing hospitality to those in need of
it. In Denmark, too, while taverns existed for supplying victuals,
the wayfarer was dependent on the citizen for lodging, again not to
his loss; he was sure of decent food, a clean bed, and a welcome.
Foreigners in England are singularly reticent about the inns, except
for reviling Gravesend for swindling; which may, perhaps, be taken
as confirming Moryson's opinion that the English inn was the best
in Europe. As to Ireland, there is the usual diversity of opinion;
the absence of inns is accounted for by the traditional idea that
the possession of an inn was a disgrace to a town, a slur on the
hospitality of its inhabitants; yet the hospitality itself was most
uncertain, since the natives were not in a position to believe in the
neutrality of a visitor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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