Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
Elsewhere, wherever mountains have to be traversed, similar conditions
prevailed. Near Spalato, it is true, the path was railed in some
distance, the only railings of the kind in Europe, apparently; but
near Mt. Olympus one looked over the edge of the precipice he had
to ride along and saw carcasses of horses, caught as they fell, or
fallen, to warn him to be careful. Says one who knew both, the road
over Pen-maen-mawr in these days was more fearful than any Alpine way.
As for Spain, there were quite a number of main roads which allowed
nothing more than single file here and there: the pass into Castile on
the road from Bayonne, for instance, and another between Granada and
Cartagena, on entering which it was customary for travellers to tighten
their belts and say an "Ave Maria" for those who had lost their lives
thereabouts. Above San Sebastian ten men might hold the road against an
army and no beasts but mules could be trusted on it, nor on the pass
from France into Aragon, so steep that no man was safe there; while
south of Santander, according to Sir Richard Wynn, for two leagues the
road was two feet broad and one hundred perpendicular fathoms above the
river.
Neither were the efforts thus entailed brightened by the idea of
mountaineering as a form of pleasure. Probably the only recorded climb
undertaken during this period with no other object than that of getting
to the top is the ascent of "Les Jumelles," the highest peak near
Pau, an ascent known to us through De Thou. One M. de Candale started
at four o'clock one May morning in the first half of the sixteenth
century. Before half-way was reached, his younger companions were on
the way down; they had come in their shirts and found the cold too
much for them; M. de Candale was wearing a fur coat. At half-way the
last trace of a human being was left behind, but he and some peasants
reached the top with the help of ladders and grappling-irons and took
measurements. It is characteristic enough of the age that De Thou's
comments on the calculated height are a comparison with the reckonings
of Apuleius and Plutarch concerning Olympus, which they considered the
highest mountain in the world. Mediæval opinion put Mt. Sinai first,
probably because that was the only mountain a mediæval Christian ever
tried to get to the top of, a process of reasoning which may be traced
in the guesses of these travellers, and in local opinion, as to which
was the highest of the Alps; it is always one of those past which they
endeavoured to make their way, St. Gothard or St. Bernard, for which
they claim preëminence. Another fashion of reckoning is to calculate,
not perpendicularly, but according to the apparent length of the way,
which makes Mt. Quarantana "six miles high"; while one traveller has a
unit of measurement entirely his own, a mountain being to him so many
"towers" high, the tower in question being the belfry of Malines, his
native place.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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