Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
There was, nevertheless, one piece of mountaineering that was
continually being done under the guise of a pilgrimage, the ascent of
the Roche Melon, near Mt. Cenis, or, as it is termed in full as late
as 1574,[108] Roche Rommelon; the Latin name had been Mons Romuleus.
Of the origin of this pilgrimage and the reason for building a chapel
to Our Lady on the summit, nothing has been ascertained beyond what
may be read to-day in the cathedral at Susa, where is still to be
seen,[109] though unmentioned by Baedeker, a triptych representing
a Madonna and Child, St. George, St. James, and a kneeling warrior,
with an inscription to the effect that one Bonifacio Rotario of Asti
"brought me [_i. e._ the triptych] hither in honour of our Blessed
Lord and our Lady on September 1, 1358." The word "hither" refers to
the summit of this Roche Melon, to which the picture is still carried
up every year.[110] In 1588 Villamont made the ascent, which was only
practicable in August, with spikes on his feet and hooks fastened to
his hands, and rather more assistance than a modern mountaineer would
consider dignified. The feat is the more remarkable inasmuch as the
height (11,605 feet) is more than half as high again as the highest
point of any pass that was used then.
On reaching the top, Villamont forgot all his terror and fatigue in
the glorious view, glorious not for the grandeur of the scenery to
him, but because it was his first sight of Italy, "the paradise to
gain which they willingly," as another phrases it, "passed through
the purgatory of the Alps." Such was their opinion of Switzerland.
They spoke of the Alps just as we do of the Channel—they had
had a "good crossing," or the reverse. More definitely, to quote
Howell's words, "the high and hideous Alps ... those uncouth, huge,
monstrous, Excrescences of Nature," productive of nothing useful.
Few were those who were free-spirited enough to enjoy themselves. Of
the exceptions most notable are Tasso and the Infanta. The former
mentions the existence of a common preference for scenes characterised
by unbroken spaciousness, but for himself, he likes a varied view
with much to catch the eye, hills, dales, and trees, and even, he
goes on, "E, che più, la sterilità e rigidezza dell' Alpi, facendone
paragone alla vaghezza degli altri spettacoli, suole molte fiate
riuscire piacevolissima."[111] The Infanta's own words are still more
remarkable: "Yo dudo que se pudiera ver mejor cosa en el mundo ni màs
para ver." Even she, however, when going into detail, gives first
places to the plants that were new to her and to the waterfalls. When,
indeed, somebody else expresses any degree of pleasure in connection
with the Alps, it is generally the waterfalls that occasion it. But
there is a further exception even to this, and he, curiously enough,
is a popular Parisian poet, St. Amant. Although he writes, in his
"Polonaise," concerning Poland,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account