Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
But finishing the crossing by rowing-boat was a very ordinary
experience because of the state of the harbours. Calais was the better
of the two, yet it sometimes happened that passengers had to be carried
ashore one hundred yards or more because not even boats could approach.
In 1576 an ambassador to France complains that Dover harbour is in such
utter ruin that he will cross elsewhere in future; in 1580 Sir Walter
Ralegh procured reform, which was perpetually in need of renewal. In
time a stone pier was built, small, and dry at low water, as indeed the
whole harbour was; the entrance was narrow and kept from being choked
up only by means of a gate which let out the water with a rush at low
tide. The ancient, quicker route to Wissant, more or less the route
which "Channel-swimmers" make for now, had begun to be abandoned when
the English obtained a port of their own on the opposite coast, and had
been completely dropped by this time. Boulogne had no cross-channel
passenger traffic worth mentioning. Dieppe, on the contrary, was as
much used as Calais, the corresponding harbour being, not Newhaven,
but Rye, which was also the objective on the rarer occasions when the
starting-place was Havre. So unusual was the Havre-Southampton passage
that among the suspicious circumstances alleged against a Genoese who
landed in 1599, one was his choice of this way across.[24]
Going by the North Sea the usual havens were Gravesend, and Flushing
or Brill, in spite of Brill's shallow harbour-bar, passed on one
occasion with only two feet of water under the keel when "Mr. Thatcher,
a merchant of London, who had goods therein, was so apprehensive that
he changed colours and said he was undone, 'Oh Lord,' and such-like
passionate expressions." Harwich was reputed so dangerous a harbour
that when Charles I's mother-in-law came to visit her daughter in 1638
and put in there, she found no one to receive her; it not being thought
within possibility to expect her to land there. The fact that she did
was probably due to her having been seven days at sea in a storm; not
that the courtier-chronicler of her voyage allows she was any the worse
for it, although he owns of her ladies that "they touched the hearts
of the beholders more with pity than with love." A forty-eight-hour
passage was nothing to grumble at: Arthur Wilson, the historian of
James I's reign, left Brill in an old twenty-five-ton mussel-boat, at
the bottom of which he lay, sea-sick and expecting drowning, for three
days and three nights until he came ashore at—the Hague.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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