Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
Fynes himself hurried home and never crossed the Channel again. But he
extended his knowledge of Great Britain by a visit to Scotland, and
by accompanying Sir Charles Blount during the latter's conquest of
Ireland. Then he settled down to write all he knew and could get to
know about the countries he had seen, and wrote at such length that no
one till quite recently has had the courage to reprint his account,
although what he printed was by no means all that he wrote. For this
reason his work has remained practically unused, even by writers whom
it specially concerns. It must form the basis of any description of
the countries he saw, at any rate, as seen by a foreigner, going, as
he does, more into detail than any one else, and being a thoroughly
fair-minded, level-headed, and well-educated man, whose knowledge
was the result of experience. His day was not the day of the 'Grand
Tourist,' whose habit it was to disguise single facts as general
statements, and others' general statements as his own experiences.
Yet however irreplaceable may be Montaigne's subjectivity and Moryson's
objectivity, it is desirable to find some one who combines both.
Such a one is Pietro della Valle, of Naples and Rome. He is the
impersonation of contemporary Italy at its best; of, to use his own
phrase, "quella civiltà di vivere e quello splendore all' italiana,"
and to read his letters is to realise, as in no other way can be so
readily realised, the reason why Italy held the position she did in
the ideas of sixteenth-century people. If you separate the various
characteristics that account for much of the attractiveness of his
writings; the interest in things small and great, without triviality
or ponderousness; the ability to write, combined with entire freedom
from affectation; the lovableness of his Italian and a charm of phrase
apart from his Italian, which might even, perhaps, survive translation;
learning without arrogance and hand in hand with observation; and
refinement and virility living in him as a single quality—if you
isolate these, there still remains something to distinguish him from
contemporary travellers, the product of gifts and character, it is
true, but only of gifts and character as moulded by contact from birth
with the best of a splendid civilisation, of which all the gentlemen of
Europe were students, but none but natives graduates.
Still, in one respect, contemporary travellers may claim he has
taken an unfair advantage. Not one of them has a romantic love-story
as a background to his journeyings; Della Valle has two. After a
twelve years' courtship at home, his intended bride was given by her
parents to some one else. This was the cause of his wanderings. At
San Marcellino at Naples, a mass was sung and the nuns prayed, the
little golden pilgrim's staff he wore round his neck was blessed, and
a vow made by him never to take it off until he had visited the Holy
Sepulchre.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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