Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
For the second cause, the greatness of the Roman Empire appeared the
greater for their having so little with which to compare it. The empire
of the Ottomans had, it is true, by now eclipsed it; but Spain's was
a vague wilderness, inhabited by savages; the Persian of old they
only knew through the doctored accounts of the Latin writers; and of
the overwhelming antiquity and extent of the Chinese they had no real
knowledge at all. All, the Turkish excepted, that were not shadowy
to them, were what Rome had obliterated, the moral effect of which,
associated, as it must needs be, with the name of the city, endured
as the chief asset of the Papal power. If any one then had taken
Gibbon's view, that the remains of the Roman Empire were approaching
dissolution, it would only have been because he thought that the end of
the world was equally near. And this unbroken continuity of power did
not merely exist, but was alive with fresh life. Nothing had replaced
Rome; there was nothing to replace it; there was no need to replace
it, since there was nothing effete nor slack about it, however much
corruption was patent to the "Reformed."
The relations between visitors who were "Reformed" and Rome is another
interesting feature of the tourist-life of the time when both were
militant and a large proportion of tourists anti-Catholic. Much
depended on the reigning Pope. In the time of Sixtus V (1585-90)
Protestants came in fear, lived in disguise, and sought protection;
Englishmen from Cardinal Allen, who readily granted it for a few days,
to enable them to see the antiquities. Clement VIII (1592-1605) was
much more lenient, yet Moryson thought it advisable even then to pass
for a Frenchman, and to safeguard himself through Cardinal Allen, as
well; also to leave before Easter, when there was a house-to-house
visitation to enquire if all were communicants. Precautions, on the
other hand, might be overdone. It was all very well to make a practice,
as one did, of going through a church on the way to his morning drink,
in case spies were about, but to tell one's host, as a certain German
did, on returning home from an afternoon walk, that he had just been
to mass, when all the masses were said in the morning, was going too
far! And conforming to custom had its own dangers, too, when it formed
a habit, as Moryson found, who, on entering a church at Geneva, reached
out his hand towards the poor-box in mistake for the holy-water stoop
to which he had accustomed himself; all the more embarrassing a mistake
for his being in the company of Theodore Beza.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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