Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
Gregory XV (1621-3)—to return to the Popes—forbade even the other
princes of Italy to admit any but Roman Catholics to their dominions;
and there were, besides, the already-mentioned prohibitions from the
authorities at home. The state of affairs in general may be taken as
that suggested by the localisation of Shakespeare's plays. Two-thirds
of his scenes are laid abroad, in Italy more frequently than elsewhere
outside England: yet his contemporary Italy is practically always
the North, the South being reserved for the "classical" period.
Nevertheless, it may safely be assumed that the danger was not quite so
great as the fear, and that where the former was incurred, the sufferer
had only himself to blame. Whether or no the high officials at Rome
were faulty in dogma or in virtue, they were usually both men of the
world and gentlemen. Montaigne's belongings, for example, provided the
searchers with plenty of material for a charge of heresy, but a short
conversation overcame all difficulties. And one William Davis, an
English sailor[44] who fell ill at Rome in 1598, found by experience
that a Protestant who was civil would be cared for in a hospital free
and given food and money on leaving. The more usual kind of behaviour
has already been illustrated; only it must not be imagined that the
incautiousness and incivility which turned the Protestant into a
martyr were less conspicuous among other sects. By the law of Geneva
a three-days stay was permitted to travellers of every creed. The
poet-philosopher, Giordano Bruno, and the Jesuit missionary, Parsons,
both rested there; their zeal prescribed the extremes of controversial
outrage in return for tolerance and courtesy.
But Rome and its associations have had more than their share of
attention. Imagine, then, the traveller started on the invariable
excursion to Naples, the equal of Milan as a finishing school, and one
of the few cities with underground drainage. Some, but not many, might
go on to Sicily; to Syracuse for the feast of Santa Lucia, for choice.
But what with robbers and corsair-raids, there was no travelling there
without a strong guard, and the towns were so unsafe that Messina seems
to have been the first of European towns to evolve a combined bank
and safe-deposit under municipal guarantee; established by 1611, when
Sandys noticed it. Those who did reach Sicily usually visited Malta as
well; small boats with five rowers left about two hours before sunset,
and if no Turkish sail was sighted, went on, reaching Malta about dawn.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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