III. TAKING THE ROAD 14 IV. FIRST NIGHTS OUT 21 V. GOING UP TO THE SNOW 28 VI. DIFFERENT WAYS OF GOING DOWNWARD 34 VII. SILENCED BY THE MOUNTAINS 40 VIII. NIGHT AND NOTHING ON THE MOUNTAINS 47 IX. “WIFE, GIVE ME THE PAIN-KILLER” 54 X. CLEAR BLUE 62 XI. NATIONAL WILDERNESS 71 XII. GOING WEST 77 XIII. CLIMBING RED EAGLE 82 XIV. DOING THE IMPOSSIBLE 89 XV. PEOPLE IN CAMP 95 XVI. VISITED BY BEARS 101 XVII. LINDSAY’S STONE COFFEE 108 XVIII. MAKING MAPS OF THE WORLD 114 XIX. A MOUNTAIN POINT OF VIEW 121 XX. BY THE CAMP FIRE 127 XXI. DOWN CATARACT MOUNTAIN 133 XXII. “GO WEST, YOUNG MAN” 139 XXIII. THE SUN-WORSHIPPERS 146 XXIV. TWO VOICES 151 XXV. STOPPED BY THE CLOUDS 158 XXVI. LINDSAY ON ROOSEVELT 165 XXVII. THE WILLOWS 171 XXVIII. JOHNNY APPLESEED 177 XXIX. LOG-ROLLING 184 XXX. TOWARD THE KOOTENAI 190 XXXI. AS THE SPARKS FLY UPWARD 196 XXXII. THE STAR OF SPRINGFIELD 201 XXXIII. FLAT TOP MOUNTAIN 213 XXXIV. CROSSING THE CANADIAN LINE 221 XXXV. THE DIFFERENCE 231 XXXVI. DUKHOBORS 239 XXXVII. A VISIT TO THE MORMONS 247 XXXVIII. “BLOOM FOR EVER, O REPUBLIC!” 274 TRAMPING WITH A POET IN THE ROCKIES [Illustration: HAIL TO ALL MOVING THINGS] I. TRAMPING AGAIN WELL, it’s good to be going tramping again. I’ve been sitting in European cafés and reading newspapers half a year, from Constantinople to Berlin, and I’ve only stretched my legs when in strange cities I needed to find a hotel, beating it pleasurelessly on asphalt. Last autumn, yes, I was tramping over the ruins and wreck of the war in France, and the year before that walked across Georgia on the track of old Sherman. But with a purpose, and in lands where after all there are hotels, and one pulls the blinds down when the stars appear.