Tramping With a Poet in the RockiesLindsay, Vachel
General
Tramping With a Poet in the Rockies
Lindsay, Vachel
Lindsay, Vachel, 1879-1931; Rocky Mountains -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
THE sun went down, the shadows below us deepened, the snow banks
multiplied themselves in number, and their outlines and suggestiveness
intensified as the valley whence we had arisen lost its trees and
changed to a vast blank abyss. Our unfailing wonder when we sat down
on a stone to regain our lost breath was the multitudinous terrain of
awful, wrathful mountain peaks which in indescribable promiscuity had
climbed the horizon wall to stare at us.
Vachel confessed to being dizzy and dared hardly look downward whence
we had come. He preferred to look upward, and it was always “three
more dashes and we’ll be there,” though instead of three we made thirty.
Our mountain at length seemed to show the last limits and to be crowned
by a sort of Roman wall. We came in view of a long, serried, level grey
rock which ran evenly along the mountain brow like a fortification, and
in the midst of it was a way of stone steps and a gap. I got up through
the hole in the wall and hauled up Lindsay’s pack after me, and he
followed.
But when we got on top it was flat, but it was not the top. We lay
full length there and ate raisins and looked upward over another field
of shale and loose boulders, and a cold wind as from the Pole swept
across. We watched the first stars appear and talked of finding a
sheltered ledge somewhere and sleeping on it or at least waiting on it
till morning. But secretly we still had a strong hold on hope. Mountain
tops are only to be conquered, and we would not give in.
* * * * *
“THE other sky beyond the mountain ridge is on tiptoe waiting for us,”
said I.
It should be explained that the mountains here are nearly all
“razor-edges.” When you have climbed sheer up to the top you have to
climb sheer down the other side. Plateaus and table mountains are rare.
The mountain “cirques” and ridges actually cut the great sky in two and
you can only join the two pieces of it at the top.
However, when, after another forty minutes of picking our way upward,
we did actually reach the summit no new sky greeted us. Indeed, I
shrank back aghast from the dreadful view that I saw. For the mountain
swept downward in long, swift and severe lines into a funnel of Erebus
darkness. We stood perched at a gigantic height above the world, and it
was black night with an abyss both behind and in front of us.
You could stand on the top of the mountain and see the two dreadful
views, on the one side scores and fifties of wrathful, staring
mountains and on the other a purgatorial abyss for lost souls.
We dared not start a descent so we slept on the top of the mountain.
I lay on a narrow ledge and slumbered and waked. And Vachel, who was
hypnotised by the abyss, would not lie down for fear he might fall off
or might get up in his sleep and jump. So he sat like a fakir the whole
night long, looking unwaveringly on one fixed spot.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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