Tramping with Tramps: Studies and Sketches of Vagabond LifeFlynt, Josiah
History
Tramping with Tramps: Studies and Sketches of Vagabond Life
Flynt, Josiah
Tramps
Our credentials for the journey consisted of our passports, some
university papers, and an open letter which I had received in St.
Petersburg from Prince Chilkoff, the Minister of Ways and Communication.
It was addressed to the director of the Siberian Railway, but I kept it
by me for the sake of identification, and it helped me through many a
predicament, although the officials to whom it was presented could never
get it through their heads how I, an Amerikanski tramp, could be in the
possession of such an almighty document. There were times, I fear, when
they were tempted to arrest me as an impostor, but they never did--a
good fortune which I can only explain on account of the singularity of
the situation. The Russian "system" was evidently not prepared for so
weird a creature, and I was allowed to pass as an anomaly.
With the Moscow student I tramped for three days in the Vitebsk
government, between the towns of Polotsk and Dünaburg, as dreary a
stretch of country as is to be found anywhere in our West. It was warm
August weather, and the sun came down on us in all its Russian
fierceness. There were times when I simply had to get under a tree to
keep from sun-stroke. At night we slept out of doors, or in haystacks
and barns. The peasants always offered us the hospitality of their
cabins, as they do to all tramps, but we could not bring ourselves to
put up with the vermin we should have found there. In winter, on the
other hand, the Gorioun is glad enough to curl up over their stoves, and
I suppose that we also should have been, had the weather been cold. As
it was, most of the vagabonds we met slept outside, as we did, and we
always had plenty of company. On this trip we met two hundred, traveling
in bands and families. They invariably wanted to know where I came from,
which is the first question they ask, after the greeting,
"Strassvuitye," and I told them the truth on each occasion.
"America--America," they would say in their simple way. "What government
is that in?" meaning what Russian province. I could not make them
understand that it was not in Russia at all, which to them is the entire
world, but they called me "the far-away brother," and I was probably
considered a new species in their class. I never had the feeling that
they accepted me as one of their own,--it would have been strange if
they had,--but they, at any rate, dubbed me "brother," and this was as
much as I could ask. They always wanted to share their simple fare with
me, and I soon saw that there was but little danger in associating with
them.
II
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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