Each time that the train stops, there is great confusion. The natives
arrive at the station hours ahead of time. Here they squat patiently
until the train arrives, when they quite lose their heads. In an
attempt to find places in the crowded carriages, they run excitedly up
and down the platform, clinging to one another, clutching at their
clumsy luggage, and screaming at their servants and the trainmen.
Equally agitated groups pour out of the cars and scurry off to find
bullock carts or _ekkas_ to drive them to the town, which is usually
some distance from the station. Boys and women with sweets, fruit,
drinking-water, toys, cheap jewelry, and various articles of native
production cry their wares at the car windows. Others sell newspapers,
which are apt to be weeks old, if the purchaser does not insist upon
seeing the date. The platform presents a riot of strange costumes,
bright colors, quick-moving figures with jingling bangles and ankles,
unholy odors, and clamorous sounds.
At the stations, we were met in different parts of India by the
greatest imaginable variety of conveyances--carriages with footmen and
drivers in state livery, sent by the native princes, hotel and public
carriages after models never dreamed of in America, bullock carts,
elephants, camels, rickshaws, and, in Calcutta and Bombay,
taxi-automobiles.
When your driver starts off down the street at a reckless gait,
clanging a bell in the floor of the carriage with his foot, and a boy
on a step at the back calls out "_Tahvay!_" as you bowl along, you
wonder if you have not taken, by mistake, a police wagon or an
ambulance. But it is all right; you hear the same shouting and clanging
of bells from all the other carriages along the route. This noise is
necessary to make the idlers who stroll along the streets hand in hand
get out of the way of the carriages.
There are so many horses in India that one wonders why any one should
ever walk, and, in fact, very few do. They are of all grades, differing
as much as does the shabbiest beggar from the most gorgeous raja. The
conveyances to which they are harnessed range from the rickety public
ekkas to the royal gold and silver coaches used on state occasions. One
sees these wretched-looking public carriages that can be hired for a
few cents filled with lazy natives and pulled along by a poor little
pony that looks as if it were half-starved. Contrasting with these poor
over-worked creatures are the thoroughbreds which literally die in the
stables of the princes for lack of exercise.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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